Control Arm Questions with EVO Coilovers?
Hello,
I have a 2016 JKU that I have ATX Slabs and 37" Coopers. I will be installing the bolt on Evo Coilover setup front and rear here shortly, have the kit sitting in the garage ready to go. I also have the Synergy Drag Link Flip kit also to help with the steering correction. I plan also to upgrade the tierod to synergy and look at installing a hydro assist kit here shortly along with beefing up the Dana axles with c's and sleeves and maybe full gussests.
My question is this. I order a set of stock length adjustable Rokmen control arms for my Jeep. With full Johnny Joints and steel tubing. I was called yesterday and told that Rokmen is no longer going to produce control arms in steel and with be moving production to straight/no bends 7075 aluminum arms. I was told they still have the rear upper and lowers and the front uppers in steel, but no longer have the front lowers in steel. I can have steel control arms and the one set of aluminum front lowers or I can have full aluminum control arms.
So is there any benefits to aluminum other than weight savings? Or do I need to avoid aluminum all together?
I have a 2016 JKU that I have ATX Slabs and 37" Coopers. I will be installing the bolt on Evo Coilover setup front and rear here shortly, have the kit sitting in the garage ready to go. I also have the Synergy Drag Link Flip kit also to help with the steering correction. I plan also to upgrade the tierod to synergy and look at installing a hydro assist kit here shortly along with beefing up the Dana axles with c's and sleeves and maybe full gussests.
My question is this. I order a set of stock length adjustable Rokmen control arms for my Jeep. With full Johnny Joints and steel tubing. I was called yesterday and told that Rokmen is no longer going to produce control arms in steel and with be moving production to straight/no bends 7075 aluminum arms. I was told they still have the rear upper and lowers and the front uppers in steel, but no longer have the front lowers in steel. I can have steel control arms and the one set of aluminum front lowers or I can have full aluminum control arms.
So is there any benefits to aluminum other than weight savings? Or do I need to avoid aluminum all together?
In all honesty, I want 7075 aluminum for anything rod shaped on my jeep! Haha I'd make a cage out of the stuff if I knew it would hold.
My drag link is 1.5 7075, my tie rod will be 1.5 7075, I'd love for my control arms to be 7075 as well! It's strength/weight ratio is impressive and you don't have to worry about rust like you do with steel.
My drag link is 1.5 7075, my tie rod will be 1.5 7075, I'd love for my control arms to be 7075 as well! It's strength/weight ratio is impressive and you don't have to worry about rust like you do with steel.
In all honesty, I want 7075 aluminum for anything rod shaped on my jeep! Haha I'd make a cage out of the stuff if I knew it would hold.
My drag link is 1.5 7075, my tie rod will be 1.5 7075, I'd love for my control arms to be 7075 as well! It's strength/weight ratio is impressive and you don't have to worry about rust like you do with steel.
My drag link is 1.5 7075, my tie rod will be 1.5 7075, I'd love for my control arms to be 7075 as well! It's strength/weight ratio is impressive and you don't have to worry about rust like you do with steel.
Last edited by Extremneon; Mar 23, 2016 at 10:11 AM.
I had to go to a long arm to keep the axle swipe from causing my rear driveshaft to dig into the gas tank skid when at full flex with the EVO coilovers. Mine is a 2010 so your 2016 may be different.
I pondering now going with Fusion4x4 2.5 ton 7075 aluminum drag link and tierod to match the rest of the suspension in aluminum.
Last edited by Extremneon; Mar 23, 2016 at 12:20 PM.
Do it! You won't regret it one bit. Sometimes I just sit and marvel at the awesomeness of them. Lol. In all seriousness, I think you'd be very happy with that choice. Will look badass and perform great as well.
A buddy of mine has this issue too and he's not on coilovers. Just a 4" lift on his JKU and can't seem to figure out how to stop this from happening.
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Let us know what you need. We machine lots of 7075 and I'm certain we can beat their price on the arms.
Also, we would recommend a stronger tie rod if you are going to run hydro assist. The Synergy is a nice piece, but it will flex when under pressure. It won't stay bent, but the flex is a big loss in steering power.
While a little more money, you should check out out 2.5 ton tie rod. 1.75" solid 7075, 1-1/4" forged ends, massive rod end cartridges. Strongest tie rod on the market for a JK.
^^^Ask psychoCupcake about our 2.5 ton steering!
Also, we would recommend a stronger tie rod if you are going to run hydro assist. The Synergy is a nice piece, but it will flex when under pressure. It won't stay bent, but the flex is a big loss in steering power.
While a little more money, you should check out out 2.5 ton tie rod. 1.75" solid 7075, 1-1/4" forged ends, massive rod end cartridges. Strongest tie rod on the market for a JK.
^^^Ask psychoCupcake about our 2.5 ton steering!



