Going to be upgrading my 2010 2dr w/ auto to a TF 2.5" lift. I know none of these parts are must but I want to do it right the first time. I've read that the control arms will recenter the axles just like the trac bars. Do I need trac bars if I do the control arms? Is there any benifit to using both? Also will the control arms eliminate a need for drive shafts down the road?

 

X2 on what the "Dirt Man" said. Control arms center fron to back. Track Bars center left to right. But, with such a small lift, you may not need them all. You only need enough adjustment to get it back right. Now the drive shaft is a different problem also. This is based on lift hight and pinion angle. But, once again, a small lift my be your saving grace.

 

So it sounds like to do it right I need control arms, adj. trac bars and maybe drive shafts. Well you only live once so what the hell it's only money right?!?! So how would I know if I need control arms or drive shafts?

 

There are a lot of guys on here with 2.5 lifts using just stock setup. Usually over 3 inches is when you need to start worrying about new control arms and track bar. Just what I've read on here, but some may disagree.

 

Let me appeal to you to just add the lift and not the other and drive it first to save some money. I just added OME coils and shocks to my 2012 4 door and I was so sure based on what I was reading here I was going to need control arms and track bar but in reality the damn thing drives better than it did when I bought it. I don't think I need anything. If I stare at it for a long time then I can see my tires are offset by maybe 1/4 inch but I REALLY have to stare at it and look from both sides.

2.5 coil and shock lift drives better than new and nothing else needed. Dave at Northridge saved me at least $600-800 by telling me I don't need trackbar and control arms. I'm glad I listened.

 

I'm not totaly up to speed on all this. I am looking at doing this lift myself. But havn't done it yet. But I was under the impression that you could get buy with ( and still be very close ) 1 set of front control arms ( can't remember if they were upper or lower ). And the rear track bar. Then you can add the rest as money and time permits.

 

to be exact, LOWER control arms allow you to reposition the axle under your jeep and the UPPERS allow you to set caster up front and your pinion angle in the rear. with just 2.5" of lift, you DO NOT need all 8 to do it right. just adding lowers and setting them to about 23" eye to eye will be all you need to do.

with just 2.5" of lift, you don't need anything. IF you feel like your jeep is flighty at highway speeds, adding a pair of front adjustable lower arms will allow you to add a bit more positive caster and that will help out a lot. while your front axle will shift over a bit after doing the lift, it's not enough to matter and it will not effect the way your jeep handles or rides. installing an adjustable front track bar will allow you to recenter it though.

 

Like mentioned above, you may not "need" any of them with a 2.5". I just put the TF 2.5" coil on mine and installed a set of front lower and rear upper arms just to be safe. Figured I'd do it while I was working on it. I have recently gotten the adj trac bar from a fellow member, but haven't put it on yet though. Didn't need it, just came across it and figured what the heck, might as pick it up.

If you don't want to spend the extra money, don't get them and see how it does. If you feel that you need them, they are pretty easy to add.

 

All this is absolutely correct and take it verbatim as the proper advice. After putting my OME I first re-centered the axle with an adjustable track bar, and after some months I decided the steering had indeed became a lil more loose than what I wanted, so I got a pair of lower arms mounted. You can always go in parts as you see fit, most of these components are bolt-on parts, basic tools, some place to work and write-ups from this community is all you need!

A quick question, partially on this topic: if you add only control arms, do you still need to loose all bolts for the upper arms and track bars and re-torque all to spec? Or this only when the coils are swapped?

 

you only really need to do it when installing the new taller coils and even then, it's not that critical - just a good idea.