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Control Arms Question!

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #1  
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From: Ocean River
Default Control Arms Question!

If I want to rotate my rear axle(to get bump stops level ), but I don't want the rear axle moving back anymore, can I just adjust the rear lower arms a bit longer and keep the rear upper arms the same length as right now? In fact, my rear upper arms are in the shortest setting right now, but I found that they are still a bit longer than the stock one.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sanyezhong
If I want to rotate my rear axle(to get bump stops level ), but I don't want the rear axle moving back anymore, can I just adjust the rear lower arms a bit longer and keep the rear upper arms the same length as right now? In fact, my rear upper arms are in the shortest setting right now, but I found that they are still a bit longer than the stock one.
Pull one of the control arms and unscrew the flex joint from it.Check and see how far the thread goe's down. You might be able to cut about 1/2-3/4" off the tube to shorten them. Or cut off the spring purchs and rotate them.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 03:42 AM
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From: Ocean River
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Originally Posted by TeraFlex
Pull one of the control arms and unscrew the flex joint from it.Check and see how far the thread goe's down. You might be able to cut about 1/2-3/4" off the tube to shorten them. Or cut off the spring purchs and rotate them.
The control arms that I use are from Teraflex, however, even with the shortest setting, the rear upper arms are still a little longer than the stock ones. Now, I set the rear upper arms in the shortest setting, and set the rear lower arms a bit longer than the stock ones. With the current rear control arms setting, I encountered the following issue, the rear axle is not level, so do the bump stops, and rear coil springs are bowing.

If I want to get my rear axle level, can I just make the rear lower arms more longer than the current setting and leave the rear upper arms alone?

By the way, I will do a little modification on my rear Mopar steel bumper, because there is not enough room between it and the rear tires if I adjust the rear lower arms more longer( rear axle moving backward).
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 03:59 AM
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Your rear pinion angle should take priority over spring perch. If the pinion angle is off very far you will have vibration and premature failure. Set that first and then you might have to cut and change the spring perch's.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 04:14 AM
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Cutting and re-welding spring perches is a costly, labor intensive proposition, but I have a friend here who did it to his JK and it looks factory.

I just bought a set of Krawler degree shims expressly designed for this purpose. They work perfectly and are an easy installation. Call David @ Northridge.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/cat...p?r_itemID=247
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:55 AM
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From: Ocean River
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Thanks for the replies. I also considering the spring mounts from JKS, and that will also solve the coil bowing issue. By the way, I will also try the get the best adjustment of the control arms, in fact, my rear drive shaft is an aftermarket product, so that there is still some room for adjustment.
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