I was looking at picking up the Clayton 3.5" kit for my 2dr Rubi. Does this kit give an actual 3.5" of lift or is it more for a 2dr application?

 

Here is the install..
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

A few pics

 

I'll comment on this. I've had my JK about 13 months now. I put the lift on shortly after I got it and have done quite a bit of wheeling with it.

Is the RE SF 3.5" a good lift? Yes. I paid 1649 which included four of RE's Bilstein 5100 shocks and shipping. I think it is the biggest bang for the buck as far as lifts go. It flexes well and other than a bad batch of bushings which RE replaced I haven't had any problems with it. It is a high quality lift.

Would I do it again? No. Why? I thought my wife would go along with this in a grudging fashion just to please me. It turns out she has taken to it like a duck to water. She loves to drive, takes spotting well and is becoming a pretty good spotter. We get out about every other weekend. The only problem I have is that unless the trail is what some would describe as technical she gets bored with it. Bottom line is that given how much we use it and the fact that we are often on more difficult trails and terrain I think I'd spend a few more bucks on a lift now.

I am not convinced that a Long Arm kit is necessary and I think all the current LA kits have flaws. So for now I'd stay with the standard arms as I've seen how well they perform. I'd go Currie arms if off road performance and flex where the most important to me. If I wanted fewer JohnnyJoints and a bushing (Clevite 77 bonded) in each arm for a better road ride I'd go Clayton arms.

When I bought my lift I wanted everything from the same mfg so it would work together. Given what I now know about the JK I'd piece a lift together. I'm sold on the AEV High Steer kit and their rear trackbar and bracket. What those two items do for the roll center and handling is amazing. I'd probably go with their springs and shock too. So basically it would be the AEV Premium kit plus Currie or Clayton arms as above. I wouldn't go with the Currie kit as I don't like the dropped pitman arm they use. The JK already has a long sector shaft and I don't like increasing the forces on it any more than they are. Also Currie springs tend to be soft and give a ride with more lean than I like. It's something you like or don't. I knew I was going to load the JK up and wanted stiffer springs. As it was I had to get the rear springs from the RE 4.5" LA kit to support the weight I carry and keep me level.

 

Hey hows it going. Thanks for all your comments and praise.

We do check these forums, and listen to what our customers have to say.

Yes we are working on a drag link flip kit. We have the inserts machined and getting coated as we speak. The OEM flip drag links are ordered and should be here next week. We are desiding on if we can make a bolt on front trackbar bracket. Welding on one would be stronger and make it easier to design. Ultimately we look at strength. Hope to have more info at the end of this week.

After that we will start working on a long arm kit. I don't think its necessary until you go 6+ inches, but if people want it, we will design it.

Hope everyone has a good weekend.

Adam

 

I found that the actual amount lift on my 2 dr is about 4". I really like the Clayton lift, the ride is a little more firm that the OEM but believe the ride is even better. Plus the articulation is just amazing.

I think what makes Clayton Offroad so great is Adam and Clayton themselves. They will take as much time as you need to answer your questions and are straight shooters. Most importantly, they take a lot of pride in their product and stand by it.

 

I agree with what you say except for one thing. I bought Currie arms for the flex and pieced together other stuff. I too wanted to avoid the drop pitman arm and I didn't feel that welding on trackbar brackets were necessary so I got the nice beefy Clayton rear track bracket with adjustable trackbars front/rear(Tera/JKS) However I find the Currie springs I bought to be pretty stiff compared to stock. At least that's my perception from driving for about 2 weeks. It is a very nice ride, just stiff. I have the same shocks 5100 Bilsteins I had with the stock springs so that isn't a factor. I did however have Sahara factory springs that were probably on the cushy side by factory standards. Maybe that has leant to my opinion on the Currie springs.

 

Is there a big difference between the Currie and Clayton arms besides being square or round? I know they both use Johnny Joints which is good, but other than that? I appreciate the responses and am now thinking I may piece a 4.5" lift together, or maybe 3.5 since I only want to run 35s.

I'm wondering what the best springs would be? AEV? I too will probably have a lot of cargo when camping/hunting and eventually a pop-up trailer.

 

The Currie arms utilize Johnny Joints at both ends where the Clayton doesn't at the frame of theirs. I'm not sure if that is true for all the Clayton arms or not since I don't have them. People say the Clayton arms will ride better on the street and that Currie having Johnny Joints at the frame will give you a little more vibration through the frame. I haven't noticed anything like that with the Currie arms though. And of course the always mentioned lifetime warranty on the Clayton arms. I really don't see myself having any problems with the Currie arms though as far as bending or breaking! Both are very well built with lots of good recommendations from the crowd here.

 

Adam,
I'm really anxious to see your take on a long arm kit. Nothing on the market as of yet as made me drop the dollars. They all seem to have some flaws. I particularly don't want the lower brackets hanging down where they are going to get caught on obstacles, short upper arms like TF uses, or radius arms like RE uses. I would also like it if you could offer the arms as an upgrade.