So my front axle started leaking. Went to go replace it and noticed excessive play in the drive flange....... So I decided to tear down the axle and inspect what the issue was.


Nothing seemed bad, so I wonder if the pinion just lost its bearing preload from hard wheeling?

Regardless, I need to basically overhaul my front axle.

If I'm keeping the same gears and just replacing bearings and seals, do I need to check tooth patterns? Or do I simply set the pinion preload on the crush sleeve and re-assemble?

My thought is to clean up the empty housing, get new bearings and re-use the factory shims. I only need to worry about pinion and carrier bearing pre-load correct?


Also how are people holding the drive flange when torquing the pinion nut?

Lastly how does one set the carrier bearing pre-load? If I use the shims that were already in there I should be ok? correct? or do I need to measure and check to see if everything is ok?

It seemed like the carrier did come out fairly easy, is that normal? Or should it be pressed in the housing pretty tight? Do I need to use a case spreader?

TIA for any help that can be offered....

 

This one may help:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...gearing-82262/

 

Ratech Pinion Yoke Holder Tools 18001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Any thoughts on this tool for holding the yoke when I tighten the pinion nut?

Also do I need to check backlash ect. I'm only replacing bearings/seals....not new gears. My plan was to reuse the shims it had. Just dissasemble and rebuild with new bearings.

 

not all bearings are the same width. Compare the width of the pinion bearing... if they are the same, you are good. If not, you will have to reshim. But you can do the math and should get it on the first try... If you buy the same brand that is in there, then you should be in good shape.

 

Since the bearings are a 2 piece taper design. If mine were blown out, wouldn't it be bad to measure the old bearing against a new one?

Also will the pinion flange plate from summit I listed work for holding the flange while I torque the pinion nut?

 

Yeah...more than likely. You will more than likely have to reset the pinion and consequently the back space. That said, jeep uses timpkins so you could still get lucky. But, if you don't know how to set up the gears, I recommend you get it done by an expert. Labor is around 300 in dallas

 

The bearings that came out are KOYO bearings. I ordered new KOYO bearings with the same part #'s. I'm going to reuse the pinion shim and instal as is.
Before I close up the diff I will check backlash and wear patten just to make sure. If its off, I guess I have more work to do.....