Ok, so my end goal is to be able to run 37's and not bend or break anything unless I wheel it really hard. I thought about new synergy ball joints, gussets, regear and chromoly front axels. my other thought would be a terra flex dana 30 already done. i'm not sure what the difference in cost would be between the two and which one would be the better route. I know if I were to do the terra flex I would have to have the rear regeared also. I don't get to wheel very often but, I want make it at tough as possible for when i do. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. For the record, I'm going to run 4:56's even though most suggest 4:88's because I don't really care about having that tiny bit of extra power of the 4:88's over the lower rpm at 70 for the 4:56's

 

I would say you would be close to $3k with all mentioned, plus if you lock it. A guy on JK Freaks did the tera flex D30 last year don't remember cost.
He liked it

 

What is the budget? Adding traction, or staying open?

This is referring to a a $2000 bare housing that your current parts are swapped in to?
Or a completely built up tera30? $2000 for the housing plus another couple thousand in parts?

Assuming you meant a tera30 + shafts + locker + whatever else, ummm, why are you considering a tera30? Just get a pr44 or tera44 and be done with it.

A good build vs buy comparison:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/

 

One big regret I have is putting so much money in to strengthen my d30 instead of going for a 44. No matter how you strengthen it, you cant make your ring and pinion any stronger and if you put new shafts and locker and gears and all the other fixings on/in it, the majority of stress will still be on that R and P. ESPECIALLY with rock crawling. If your locked, with 37's, and turning because you're stuck on an obstacle with 4340 (or stronger axle shafts) than in reality, it'll only be a matter of time before it blows.

I'd suggest saving for a d44 housing. I've seen MOPAR ones go for as little as 750( on a good day). And you can dig around on other forums. Especially one that rhymes with' shmyrateDoorbyDoor'

 

I run 37 toyo mts on my 30 I have done ball joints , sleeve and gusset and 5.13 gears

I still run my stock shafts for the reason that if something is going to break a rather lose a shaft then ring & pinion

I never understood the waste of money to strengthen up the axle , it doesn't cost as much as people make it seem unless you just drop off the whole jeep and let someone else do it

 

I'm running 40" Toyo mt's w/4:56 gears, completely stock d30, it's doing great but I'm aware of what/how will break it so I'm very conservative on the skinny pedal. I've purchased ARB locker, RCV axles, ball joints, Reid knuckles. Artec armor kit Just waiting on a time to be without the jeep for a week to install. I'll do my own work except welding.

 

I would just gusset it and save the rest for a 44.
I was running 5:38's and 37 mud grapplers for over a year whike I saved for mine. It held up over multiple wheeling trips but the thought was always there while wheeling... whens it gonna break.


And yes you read that right. I ran 5:38's. Richmond gear made them for a short time.

 

^^^good advice. You can pick up a used D44 off a Rubicon for less than building a D30. If you look hard enough, you can find one that is already fairly built. Then all you have to do is swap the axle (about as easy as putting a lift on). You get the added savings of being able to sell you current axle. For a net cost of about $2500, you can have a set of fully built Rubicon axles.

 

Wish I could find a deal like that.

 

I understand that the d44 is a good swap piece, but aren't current rubicon d44 just a d30 with a d44 pumpkin? I would think just doing sleeves and gussets, less than 200 if you do the work yourself, would allow you the same benefits until you felt the need to go to a 37 inch or larger tire, at which time you'll need the d44 to handle the gears.