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Dana 44 Axle upgrade options

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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Default Dana 44 Axle upgrade options

I am getting ready to replace my front D30 with a 44 and would appreciate some input. I'm planning on keeping 35s, but could eventually shift to 37s-40s in a couple of years. (still want to focus on optimizing for the 35s though)

Looking at:

Prorock 44 most likely, but possibly the teraflex D44. (I like the thicker tubing of the Pr44)

RCV Axle shafts (lifetime warranty)

New Ball Joints

Front Detroit or ARB locker

Using stock components outside of the above

Anyone that has gone down this road please provide and suggestions you might find helpful. Regrets, etc. I am currently torn on the arb selectable vs Detroit.- i know it could save a decent amount of money and seems like it might be the smarter move to go with the detroit, but let me know what you think. Thanks in advance!

Last edited by wayoflife; Aug 19, 2012 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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I know if your going to run 40s then just get 60s everyone says with 40s on a 44 you'll just rip it up in no time
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Murder¹
I know if your going to run 40s then just get 60s everyone says with 40s on a 44 you'll just rip it up in no time
The problem is, it could be five years before i make that jump and I might never go to that.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Raisinhead
I am getting ready to replace my front D30 with a 44 and would appreciate some input. I'm planning on keeping 35s, but could eventually shift to 37s-40s in a couple of years. (still want to focus on optimizing for the 35s though)

Looking at:

Prorock 44 most likely, but possibly the teraflex D44. (I like the thicker tubing of the Pr44)

RCV Axle shafts (lifetime warranty)

New Ball Joints

Front Detroit or ARB locker

Using stock components outside of the above

Anyone that has gone down this road please provide and suggestions you might find helpful. Regrets, etc. I am currently torn on the arb selectable vs Detroit.- i know it could save a decent amount of money and seems like it might be the smarter move to go with the detroit, but let me know what you think. Thanks in advance!
if you're really planning to go 40's someday, i would save up for a 60 instead.

otherwise, the PR44 is the way to go only, i would skip the RCV's, get standard chromo shafts with full circle clips (lifetime warranty too) and use the money you save to get pro steer ball joints instead. i would also get an ARB over a detroit up front.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Okay. Thanks.

Anyone else?
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
if you're really planning to go 40's someday, i would save up for a 60 instead.

otherwise, the PR44 is the way to go only, i would skip the RCV's, get standard chromo shafts with full circle clips (lifetime warranty too) and use the money you save to get pro steer ball joints instead. i would also get an ARB over a detroit up front.
Any reason to skip the RCV's? Just money or performance also?

I don't know if the ProSteer Ball Joints and RCV's still do not fit quite right. Thoughts?
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sandboxphil
Any reason to skip the RCV's? Just money or performance also?

I don't know if the ProSteer Ball Joints and RCV's still do not fit quite right. Thoughts?
The reasoning I believe is that with RCV 's installed now the ring and pinion is the weak point. Replacing a shaft is alot cheaper then replacing a R&P. But I may be way off .
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Should have included that I'll be going with 5:13's as well. I am still learning with this stuff...
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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Even with great shafts like RCVs or high quality chomo, the shafts will be the weak link. The front Rubi 44 gear has proven to be very durable with even very large tires. The shafts are the failure point.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
Even with great shafts like RCVs or high quality chomo, the shafts will be the weak link. The front Rubi 44 gear has proven to be very durable with even very large tires. The shafts are the failure point.
I stand corrected. Thanks for the clarification
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