Demon collector bolt issue.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Seatte
Demon collector bolt issue.
Hey, did a search and didn't see a thread on this - but I am a noob here at JK so forgive me if this is a repost.
I drive an '07 Rubi Unlimited, and recently ditched my factory headers for a set of JBA shorty headers. The headers (along with a slew of other mods) have been aces, but I have run into a re-occuring problem with my driver side collector bolts repeatedly coming loose. I've tried everything thing from double nutting them, using new bolts with higher thread count, using the metal HVAC tape on the threads, to high temp lock-tight, etc. I typically get 100 miles before they are finger loose... Also, I have the headers wrapped with lava tape to help with heat (lesson learned the hard way with my ignition wires! DOH!). I am assuming at this point that there is a vibration issue, but not sure what to try next.
Any ideas? Is there another bread of collector bolt I should use? Should I weld them next!?
I drive an '07 Rubi Unlimited, and recently ditched my factory headers for a set of JBA shorty headers. The headers (along with a slew of other mods) have been aces, but I have run into a re-occuring problem with my driver side collector bolts repeatedly coming loose. I've tried everything thing from double nutting them, using new bolts with higher thread count, using the metal HVAC tape on the threads, to high temp lock-tight, etc. I typically get 100 miles before they are finger loose... Also, I have the headers wrapped with lava tape to help with heat (lesson learned the hard way with my ignition wires! DOH!). I am assuming at this point that there is a vibration issue, but not sure what to try next.
Any ideas? Is there another bread of collector bolt I should use? Should I weld them next!?
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Seatte
Stainless steel fasteners my friend.
The headers are stainless steel. The Cats down are stainless steel.
The bolts are grade 5 crap.
They expand at different rates. The constant heating and contracting of the crappy hardware causes it to loosen up.
Use two stainless steel fasteners, washers and lock nuts with washers between the flange halves so you do not distort the flanges when torquing down. Reap down on those bolts till you get around 35 ftlbs of torque on them. They should never come loose again.
I Myself need to do this. It is a common issue with flanges like that.I have to tighten mine once a month or more. My turbo on a motorcycle I had did the same thing. Most of the problem occurs because the flange distorts when torqued down. That in its own sets failure from heat distortion and expansion. Not wanting to deal with a 15lb turbo dropping of in front of my rear wheel at triple digit speeds I made two stainless steel spacers and welded them to the inside of the flange so you could not distort it by over tightening. They never came loose again after that.
The headers are stainless steel. The Cats down are stainless steel.
The bolts are grade 5 crap.
They expand at different rates. The constant heating and contracting of the crappy hardware causes it to loosen up.
Use two stainless steel fasteners, washers and lock nuts with washers between the flange halves so you do not distort the flanges when torquing down. Reap down on those bolts till you get around 35 ftlbs of torque on them. They should never come loose again.
I Myself need to do this. It is a common issue with flanges like that.I have to tighten mine once a month or more. My turbo on a motorcycle I had did the same thing. Most of the problem occurs because the flange distorts when torqued down. That in its own sets failure from heat distortion and expansion. Not wanting to deal with a 15lb turbo dropping of in front of my rear wheel at triple digit speeds I made two stainless steel spacers and welded them to the inside of the flange so you could not distort it by over tightening. They never came loose again after that.
