How's it going everyone? Bit of a lurker, first time poster.

I bought a 2011 jku 6 speed back in June. Since then, I have been researching and reading all I need to turn my JKU Sport into an unstoppable force.

My reason behind buying a jeep was that I work in a steel mill where the roads are dirt, mud or just plain crap. They are covered in pot holes, rocks, and sharp objects including steel scrap that will puncture tires.

With all that said, I also have been passionate about off roading my whole life. My dad taught me how to drive a stick in his 4 speed 83 CJ7 (with no rpm gauge, fuel gauge, and a broken speedo). Additionally, most of my automotive know-how can be attributed to the times we've broken that thing. My dad loved working on that jeep and I loved driving it. That's surely part of why we both have our own now! (Although his is worth about double mine ) That jeep was a hell of a fun monster truck to drive around and is the main reason I have one of my own, albeit its got the sex appeal of a soccer mom minivan.

I've done a lot of research and read up on everything I can think I'd want to do to my jk. My goal is to slowly turn this daily driver into a trail only rig over the years.

To date, here are the parts I have aquired with the goal of throwing 35s as I intend to keep my stock axles.

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3.5 Inch Lift Kit with Front Lower Control Arms and NGS Shocks
Trail Master Part TM3335-40013 - 3.5 Inch Lift Kit with Front Lower Control Arms and NGS Shocks - Fits 2007 to 2015 JK Wrangler Unlimited and Rubicon Unlimited - 4 Wheel Drive

JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT
Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

JK Rear Axle Truss
Artec Industries JK Rear Axle Truss

G2 Ring and Pinion, Dana 44, 4.88 (07-15 Wrangler JK)
G2 Wrangler Ring and Pinion, Dana 44, 4.88 2-2052-488 (07-15 Wrangler JK) - Free Shipping

G2 Reverse Ring and Pinion, Dana 30, 4.88 (07-15 Wrangler JK)
G2 Wrangler Reverse Ring and Pinion, Dana 30, 4.88 2-2050-488R (07-15 Wrangler JK) - Free Shipping

G2 Dana 30 Master Install Kit (07-15 Wrangler JK)
G2 Wrangler Dana 30 Master Install Kit 35-2050 (07-15 Wrangler JK) - Free Shipping

G2 Dana 44 Rear Master Install Kit (07-15 Wrangler JK Non-Rubicon)
G2 Wrangler Dana 44 Rear Master Install Kit 35-2053 (07-15 Wrangler JK Non-Rubicon) - Free Shipping

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By the end of the month, I will have 35x12.5x17 Nitto Mud Grapplers (37s are only 30 bucks more a tire though, hnggg I want to, but I shouldn't )
So as far as I've been told and researched, I will have enough parts to turn my SUV into a real Jeep, minus brake line extenders (necessary on a 3.5" lift?). Then when the gears are broken in and the fluid is replaced, I can wheel it and see how it performs without steering stabilizers. I do intend on getting trackbars before that though. I am constantly jumping back n forth with whether I need this or that. I see people running 37s on their jks with ONLY a lift (no re-gearing or trusses/c gussets) and they claim to do fine both off- and on-road.

So my questions start here:

Do I need anything else when I go to do this install? I don't mind taking it slow and doing things right. That is why my boxes of parts sitting in my apartment are just collecting dust right now.
- My plan is to do it all at once and save myself some time and money. I just moved into an apartment far from home so I do not have proper tools or a working space. I wouldn't be able to do gear swap or weld the trusses on anyway if I had tools as I do not possess that knowledge base.

So I want one shop to drop the axles, throw on the lift kit and while those axles are out swap the gears and weld on the armor. Does anyone have a guesstimate as to how much this costs?

Lastly, why on God's green Earth did my quote for 37s come so close to my quote for 35s!? I finally convinced myself that I didn't need them but now that big tire bug is back!

Thanks all, and I hope I am not breaking any forum rules by posting this here!!

 

For gearing I would expect to be in the 800-1000$ range for a good shop to do it lift should be about 500$ truss my shop charged 150$ per.
As far as your tires/lift 3.5 is a lot of lift on the newer jeeps for only 35 inch tires. My jeep has 37" toyos with only 2.5 lift and flat flares. You will have a lot of room between 35s and 3.5 might make the tires look small. Especially if you have 35s in mind.

 

Here's mine with 37in Toyo M/Ts and a 2.5 inch AEV lift to give you an idea of what I'm talking about

 

That's pretty much the price point I was expecting to hear, so that's good. Originally I had a 2.5 in lift in mind as well, but the lift I bought was on sale and had rear LCAs and a few other addons that I figured I'd replace anyway. I agree, 35s may not look right with a high lift, especially on a 4 door. I like the look of yours, especially the flat fenders. Something I eventually want to swap out. Any idea of the stock flares will rub the tires if I went with 37s?
I see you have a 6 speed with 5.13s. How do you like that setup? I was afraid the pinion would be too thin and cause problems early down the road, but I am worried my jeep will be under powered with 4.88s especially with the added weight of 37s.

Thanks for the advice!!

 

On such dirt roads, one of the various solutions for 'run-flat' tires might be a good idea. Imagine a second flat on the same way...
Just one example -- http://www.rodgard.com/runflats.htm

Going from 35"s to 37"s, lifts the body by 1".
Using 37"s and going from 3.5" lift to 2.5" lift, lowers the body by 1".
You end up with the same ground clearance.
However, 37"s put more strain on the drivetrain, steering and brakes, so either you strengthen all that, or reduce reliability.

You may also want to consider skid plates, so metal scrap doesn't damage parts underneath.

 

Have you been reading Del Reys build?

I think you might want to take a few steps back from the credit card and do some more reading and planning, and then maybe re-assess your overall goals.

After dumping a bunch of money into gears/truss/armor/(lockers?) on your d30, you end up with an expensive d30. Can people run 35's or 37's without breaking them? Sure. Do they drive like they have built a bullet-proof 'unstoppable force' axle? Not a chance.

I didn't notice which gears you currently have. If it is 3.21's, add a new front carrier to the list of parts. You should also price out driveshafts/balljoints/hubs/axle shafts and so on for the inevitable if/when.

Figure the costs to be hourly at whatever your local shop charges. Maybe 8 hours for the gears, 3-4 for the lift (depending on which lift/components), and 4-6 for the front armor. And then it wouldn't hurt to add in a few more hours for any problems that may come up. So 15+ hours times the shop rate ($85/hour? $100?) See what they quote and what kind of discount you can get.

Just looked at the lift. What is the function of the control arm alignment plate in step 8 of the front install? And since you have been doing a lot of research, you have read plenty of opinions on Drop Pitmans, right? And are still choosing to go that route...

 

As far as my setup even with my 3.8 I have no issues with the 37s and 5.13s perfectly acceptable around town driving I think it shifts better than stock tires with the 3.73s which had a lot of lag in the takeoff to me. And I can still pretty easily cruise around at 70 on the highway well under 3k rpm. I think 4.88s will feel underwhelming with 37s. However I drove it for about a month with the 37s and 3.73 gears and it really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. But it was a dog almost always low rpms hard to get up to highway speeds you needed a runway. 5.13s and 37s is the perfect blend for my driving style and needs. It's quick pickup easy highway travel and still mild enough not to kick or jerk like a car would with high gears ( I'm comparing to my past mustang with 4.10s was awful jeep is much more manageable)

For your flares it's hard to say it will be close definitely for mine I had beat the stock flares to shit so that was one of the first things I changed.