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Drive line mods with 4inch

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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:07 AM
  #1  
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Default Drive line mods with 4inch

My brother is willing to get the 4inch teraflex for his 4 door, and on every site it says that driveline modification are needed and i did a search on the forum and many are running 4inch without driveline mods? how come? and is it really required?
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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Teraflex should be the best source for that info. I have the r/e 4.5" long-arm and in the instructions they clearly state that driveline mod's are required.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:33 AM
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I will be getting a FT 4" next week. I have a four door Rubicon. Althought it is recommended to do modification it is not required. I think it's because the yokes on driveshafts are different than on other models because of the 44's.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:40 AM
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I ran my factory shafts for about 9 months without problem. I eventually nailed my rear shaft on a rock and had to replace it. My front shaft just started making dry bearing noises recently so I just ordered a new front. You'll be all right for a while, but plan on replacing in the future.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:47 AM
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Okay thanks everyone for the replies. I was kinda getting scared there since we didn't order drive shafts and everywhere is states that they are needed. The jeep will be doing close to none offroading maybe just a bit of dunes so it should be fine. Thanks
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:50 AM
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I forgot to add in my earlier post. You will need to trim the transmission skit plate to clear the drive shaft or you damage the shaft and tear the boot when you flex. You'll need to do this with any 4" lift and shaft combination.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RockWraith
I will be getting a FT 4" next week. I have a four door Rubicon. Althought it is recommended to do modification it is not required. I think it's because the yokes on driveshafts are different than on other models because of the 44's.
The 44 is standard on the rear of all models (except for a few 2 doors which had rear D35's). It's the angle of the driveshaft that is a problem when going to a 4"...really anything more than 3". Replacing the driveshafts is recommended.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorHead
I forgot to add in my earlier post. You will need to trim the transmission skit plate to clear the drive shaft or you damage the shaft and tear the boot when you flex. You'll need to do this with any 4" lift and shaft combination.
But only on the Autos.

I think TeraFlex recomends it because you get more than 4" out of their lift, right Rotor?


On that note, I'm running the 4" Skyjacker with the stock shafts and no problem. FYI, the stock shafts are incredibly inexpensive. MSRP doesn't seem that way, but dealer net is less than $150 each. But you didn't hear that from me!

Last edited by BLKRUBI; May 14, 2008 at 08:47 AM.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKRUBI
But only on the Autos.

I think TeraFlex recomends it because you get more than 4" out of their lift, right Rotor?
True, I got about 5-1/2" out of mine, but the stock shafts still worked fine for a while. Mostly on the 4 door, the problem is the front. The angle coming of the transfer case causes the front cv to almost be at it's limit. The rubber boot on the cv flexes and allows the grease to sling out. Eventually the dry bearing will start to go.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorHead
True, I got about 5-1/2" out of mine, but the stock shafts still worked fine for a while. Mostly on the 4 door, the problem is the front. The angle coming of the transfer case causes the front cv to almost be at it's limit. The rubber boot on the cv flexes and allows the grease to sling out. Eventually the dry bearing will start to go.
Wow! How much has it settled?
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