Drive Shaft questions (2dr w/ 3" lift)
#1
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Drive Shaft questions (2dr w/ 3" lift)
Hi all...thanks to feedback from you all, I just ordered the Teraflex 3" kit, Bilstein shocks, front lower and rear upper control/flex arms and an adjustable JKS front trackbar.......but I'm having issues understanding everything I hear regarding drive shafts.
I was told by one reputable person that I'd certainly need a rear drive shaft...and told by a reputable dealer that they never sell rear shafts with this kit and if anything I'd need a front shaft first. So, I ordered what I mentioned above and have started this thread to try and make sense of it all.
2010 2dr non-rubi 6-speed. Bought the AEV Pintler wheels and am still trying to figure out which 35" tires to get (likely BFG KM2s). Cheers.
I was told by one reputable person that I'd certainly need a rear drive shaft...and told by a reputable dealer that they never sell rear shafts with this kit and if anything I'd need a front shaft first. So, I ordered what I mentioned above and have started this thread to try and make sense of it all.
2010 2dr non-rubi 6-speed. Bought the AEV Pintler wheels and am still trying to figure out which 35" tires to get (likely BFG KM2s). Cheers.
#2
JK Jedi Master
You have a 6 spd, so your front shaft will last longer than someone with an auto. Your rear shaft will most likely fail first do to the extreme angle on a lifted 2dr. You can run it, but chances are you'll need the rear shaft sooner than later.
From Modified Tech...
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
A: On a 2007-11 JK, at bare minimum, you should have a set of 3" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, rear brake line extension brackets, new longer rear sway bar links (factory links can be installed up front), adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. Optimally, I would recommend adjustable front upper and lower control arms as well as they will help you set your caster to the appropriate angle it needs to be. Also, if you have a 2-door, adjustable rear upper control arms and a new double cardin U-joint style drive shaft would be highly advisable.
On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
From Modified Tech...
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
A: On a 2007-11 JK, at bare minimum, you should have a set of 3" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, rear brake line extension brackets, new longer rear sway bar links (factory links can be installed up front), adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. Optimally, I would recommend adjustable front upper and lower control arms as well as they will help you set your caster to the appropriate angle it needs to be. Also, if you have a 2-door, adjustable rear upper control arms and a new double cardin U-joint style drive shaft would be highly advisable.
On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
Last edited by mkjeep; 04-02-2012 at 03:25 PM.
#3
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Ive got a 2 door auto with 3.5 inch lift. Still have both stock driveshafts. Been running this way for over 10k miles. Havent done any crazy off roading, just some deep mud and some light rock crawling type stuff.
#4
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I would recommend getting rear upper control arms first. You will need them if you replace the drive shaft to set the pinion angle. By installing them now, you can turn up the pinion angle now and conciderably extend the stock driveshaft life. I am still running my stock shaft and have been lifted 3" for 4 years with the pinion angle adjusted....
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Originally Posted by Cpt. Flapjack
I would recommend getting rear upper control arms first. You will need them if you replace the drive shaft to set the pinion angle. By installing them now, you can turn up the pinion angle now and conciderably extend the stock driveshaft life. I am still running my stock shaft and have been lifted 3" for 4 years with the pinion angle adjusted....
#6
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Doh! missed that in your first post.... I would install the kit as you got it and just check the shaft at oil changes and after trips. If it starts to go, you can then order what you need. Of coruse, some people have my experiance and some loose theirs after a few months. It is just one of those things that is not 100% guarenteed.
#7
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Thanks for the input. While I'm talking... Any issues with the lift and my rock hard skids? I've got the trifecta underneath (oil pan, t case and gas tank).
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#8
JK Jedi Master
I would recommend getting rear upper control arms first. You will need them if you replace the drive shaft to set the pinion angle. By installing them now, you can turn up the pinion angle now and conciderably extend the stock driveshaft life. I am still running my stock shaft and have been lifted 3" for 4 years with the pinion angle adjusted....
#9
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Your a lucky one, most of the lifted 2drs eat a rear stock shaft within the first year. The prob with the angle isn't so much at the pinion, but at the t-case. Then again, part of the longentevity is contributed to how much and how often the rear ds will see flex when wheelin and also some 3in lifts give more in the 4in range. Again, your one of the few lucky ones.
#10
JK Jedi Master
Raising the rear pinion does help with the Tcase end also, just not as much. With the factory arms, The Tcase boot was touching the metal ring at full droop. With the arms adjusted, I have about 1/8" between the boot and ring. Not much, but has held up so far. Now that I said that, I will probably loose the thing. Now the front I lost the first trip out with my longer shocks. The boot got melted by the exhaust cross member when I got high sided. It looks like I have bad luck up front and good in the rear.