I went with a Tatton 1310 for the rear on my 2-door ... great part at a great price ....

 

Great pic, thanks. The place I normally get my stuff has a J.e. Reel, not sure of the quality? This might be offensive to some but aren't they all pretty much the same? What is the difference between the 1310 or 1350, length, diameter, composition?

Should I do the rear before the front?

 

Two-Doors need to do the rear DS before the front because it's so short the CV joint gets chewed up.

If you have a manual transmission you shouldn't have to worry about the front. I have a 4" lift and just went with the rear.

Hard to tell in my pics but you will need to rotate your axle for a new DS ... and I installed new JKS spring perches to keep my springs for arching.

Most of the manufacturers use the same name brand components.

 

I wasn't tracking a spring perch? What is that? Is it on an 08 Rubicon? And how do I rotate my axels? Simply turn them?

 

JE Reel is fine. Other popular brands are Tom Woods, Coast, Tatton. Some of the lift mfg's also sell shafts. TeraFlex, etc.

What I would suggest is that you go out to Tom Woods website (even if you choose another brand) and look around. He goes over the differences between yokes and flanges, 1310 vs 1350, how to measure for the new shaft, driveline angles, etc. Look in the JK area, and also in the Tech Info area up top.

Depends. Crawl underneath and take a look at both shafts. Are any boots ripped? Are any of the joints spitting grease? If so, that is the shaft to replace first.

In general:
Auto's have more problems with the front shaft than manuals.
2doors have more problems with the rear shaft than 4doors

Other factors to consider:
Total lift height. How long has the lift been on. Are the axles centered or offset. Standard length shocks, or longer travel. Mostly street, some light trails, or max flex on a regular basis. Do you disconnect. etc...

As noted above, a set of adj ca's is needed for each new shaft so you can adjust the pinion angles. Assuming both shafts are still in good shape, it'll be a toss-up on which to replace first. Lifted 2door, so the short rear shaft is at pretty steep angles. Automatic, so that front shaft will contact the corner of the tranny when flexed.

Flip a coin...

(or do the rear, and just pull the front off until you can replace it)

 

I looked the other day and both axels look fine (perhaps I am a puppy driver still?) No grease, no rips.

So I have a 2dr Auto, double whammy!!

I want to get crazy and climb everything but I also have to get to work so I am careful . . . oh, and maybe afraid

I have yet to disconnect but this spring I hope to have everything set to venture out and test some limits . . .

 

I guess another question is should I replace the front and rear upper CAs w/ adjustable CAs the same time as the DS?

 

Just noticed where you are ... I used to live in Chester, NY ... I'm a GA boy now ...

Your first front disconnect at full flex is what will tear your front DS boot depending on your shocks and springs. Pretty sure there is something you can trim to prevent it ... just do a search.

And as stated above ... when you replace your driveshafts you have to rotate your axle using adjustable control arms ... so the expense is more than just the DS.

 

A few points to ponder:

When you lift, the front axle is shifted toward the drivers side (which takes the shaft further away from the tranny). So re-centering the front axle will move the driveshaft back 'toward' the tranny...

Disconnecting let's the axle drop further, which brings that front driveshaft closer to the skid and the corner of the tranny.

Sooo, centered and disconnected means you need to flex in a controlled area after the lift and get out and actually look at the clearances. Be sure to do this before you get out in the boonies.

 

I used to live in Augusta for 5 years. I am ready to come back to the warmth . . .