went through same dilema, guys at Clayton told me 1310's are plenty strong unless I'm wheeling hard and aggressive rock crawling then get the 1350's. They have been running their stock for 3yrs before they replaced.

for 3.5" lift, front is recommended with rear optional. Front boot tends to rub on artiiculation so I'm modifing my stock trans skid plate to allow room.

Once the boot looks worn or is leaking, I'll replace both just for peace of mind.

 

I dont plan on doing any hardcore rock crawling but def light to moderate. Leaning towards 1310's but just wanted some first hand use opinions. Dont have 3.5" lift yet but looking to do the 4.5" AEV lift down the line. Looking like I'm going to pickup the EVO sleeves and gussets also.

 

honestly u can just wait to till the driveshafts crap out on ya then go ahead and upgrade them, might save you some money

 

true, just trying to get in on the current Northridge sale and before the Coast DS's get marked up 8%. Plus I'm regearing in a few weeks so wanted to knock out all the drivetrain upgrades at once.

 

oh yea i gotcha, the cost of labor at shops can be crazy

 

Yup its costing me 1450 with parts, labor and tax to regear alone. havent asked about installing the sleeves, gussets and driveshaft yet.

 

Where are you doing the regear at?

 

Crazy Ed's, its like a 2 minute drive from Peterson AFB where I work.

 

Good choice. They've done a lot of my gear and axle work.

 

Not sure it is an option but there is a guy on CL that is doing gears (reuse your bearings) for $850 f/r and for like $200 for new bearings. It would save you a few hundred... I hear he does great work too/ Check out the Denver stage area and there is a small conversation about him doing some gears on another members jeep not to long ago. Just thought I would mention it.