I've been doing some research on replacement driveshafts for my 2dr JK that has a 3" FT lift. I've read all the manufacturers' websites, but I want to hear from you. Specifically, what are the pros and cons with the 1310 "bolt on" replacement driveshafts? I know there are different engineering logic in the flanges/adaptor plates. I have researched Tom Woods, REEL, and Coast driveshafts.


Any thoughts?

 

Hi NOBLING,

I received a set of replacement driveshafts for my JK 2-door on Saturday. I went with Tatton driveshafts.

I would prefer to have shafts that would be direct bolt-up replacements; but, I will be changing the attachment hardware at the transfer case and differentials. Curtis Tatton walked me through the install on the phone and it sounded straight forward.

I was going to go through Northridge (he was promoting a deal on Coast driveshafts); but, I really wanted to do this through the manufacturer. It's kind of a leap going with a lesser-know like Tatton; but, he has experience with JKs, and he guarantees the welds and shafts. Time will tell.

I'll let you know how the installation works out.

Jeff

 

I would strongly recommend staying away from the 1310 OE replacement shafts that use the stock flanges. I went that route and the rear shaft gave me a harmonic vibration between 50 - 60 mph even after having it rebalanced. After talking with Jim at JE Reel, I come to find that he doesn't recomment the OE style on lifts 3 inches or more and greater than 33 inch tires - especially on the 2 doors!. I sent mine back and had it converted to a heavy duty 1310 version. They used some of the components from my original shaft and did the conversion for a very reasonalble price.

The install is more involved, but still straight forward once you get into it. Results - the Jeep is just as smooth as it was stock. No vibration at all! Go the right route the first time and replace the flanges. The overall shaft is longer this way and it places the cv joint closer to the transfer case. Jim explained that this alleviates the shaft's ability to oscillate which is the case when the joint is spaced out farther to incorporate the plates which mate to the stock flange.

Long winded I know, but I'd hate to see anyone else have the same headaches.

 

Don't waste your money. Find a local driveline builder and take your jeep to him. He will build and install custom drivelines for your jeep and install them for a fraction of the cost buying them online. Plus you will not have to do the install. Another benefit is if you ever have any vibrations, the local shop will probabley reballance and fix your problems for free.

I had a custom driveline built for the front of my Jk for $350 installed and warrented.

 

yes, I noticed that the Tom Woods driveshafts adaptors are much shorter (closer to the 3rd member) than the REEL driveshafts adaptors. Do you have the adjustable rear upper control arms to correct your pinion angle?

 

I have the Tatton shafts. No problems what so ever. I think they are the best price too. I have wheeled mine hard and I drive 40 miles each way to work. Tatton's are great in my opinion. Word of advice: You will most likely need adjustable rear upper control arms to eliminate any vibrations caused by your pinion angle being wrong.

 

Hi bone,

Thanks for your input.

I spoke with Curtis Tatton a few times before I made my decision. I had a good feeling about him, and about the history of his company.

As far as the price goes... It was the same as what I could have purchased Tom Wood or Coast. I was counting on it being less; but, I wanted to make sure I knew who it was that was standing behind their work, and Curtis was the man.

I think that your post was the first time someone has made a recommendation to me that I have completed. When I spoke with David at Northridge before ordering the OME LT kit, he recommended that I add the adjustable upper rear control arms (Currie). They are installed and set so that the pinion angle is the same as the driveshaft angle. I may need to do some tweaking once the driveshaft is installed to correct any changes made by the Tatton driveshaft and hardware (and the replacement of the stock spring mounts).

Thanks again!

Jeff

 

X3 on the Tattons shaft...His shop is about 20 minutes from my house so I had to give him a try...Way cheaper on price and he installed it!!

 

After getting more real world comments from people that have replaced their driveshafts, I've decided not to go with the "bolt on" driveshafts. I will be using standard yoke out drives. I want to do the work, so i'm going with REEL 1310 CV driveshafts for the JK and a set of FT upper rear adjustable control arms to correct the rear pinion angle.

 

I can only say I have had a bad experience with reel. If you have a good local shop, they will do a better job, cheaper, and warranty right there.