I suspect my rear driveshaft may be dying (see earlier thread of mine). I can not find where grease is coming from but it is coming from somewhere.

I have some questions. On a lot of web sites I am seeing things like 3 inches of lift or more required for use with this driveshaft. I only got about 2.5 inches of lift in the rear with my lift, can I use a CV driveshaft?

Is this all I need:

Coast Driveshaft (do i need to measure anything?)

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...-REAR2&cat=277


Rear upper control Arms:

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...S-7155&cat=273

Coil Correction

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...K02659&cat=273



And is this something I can tackle myself? Can someone give me a quick rundown of whats involved with replacing rear drive shaft and setting pinon angle.

Do u need to use a gear puller or anything or is this just a bolt on thing?

I saw someone had a writeup for DS and it confused me a but, they were using a gear puller for some reason.

Would I be better off with Tom Woods?

Thanks.

 

Anyone? I could really use some guidance on this.

 

So, I actually talked to Bill at Coast Drivelines yesterday. Super cool Guy and he can definitely answer your questions, but I asked a couple of the same. Granted I was asking about the front, but whatev. You need to make sure that you get the proper length drive shaft, specifically for the amount of collapse. Running one too long will cause problems. Of course she same with a short one is true, but people rarely think about that aspect. The other question I had was how to replace the yoke. Since I had regeared my front diff myself, I knew about setting preloads and not reusing the crush sleeve and all. I really didn't want to take my diff apart again, and I suspected that people typically don't, and I was right. He said mark the pinion nut and pinion, and since they manufacture the depth of the splines on the yoke the EXACT same as the stock flange, when you install the yoke, to tighten the nut back down to the matchmark, then go a tiny bit past. You don't have to worry about that stuff with the xfer case side as there are no bearings to worry about. Take off the old, install the new. There are torques for this of course, just didn't know them off the top of his head. After installed, run your Jeep down the road for 20 miles and then get out and feel your diff, make sure it isn't abnormally hot, indicating too high a preload and impending failure. I sure hope this helps, or answers some questions, cause this took forever to type on my phone!

 

Yes, you can use a CV DS if you like.

The pullers mentioned are to removed the yolks. (The adaptor thing from the u-joint to the transfercase or differential gear shaft. They are the small items in the picture you have linked) The connection is splined and sometimes, when new, needs a puller to come apart. If they are worn you can pull them off by hand.

The DS you have picked from Coast is already about the right length. A Tom woods is high quality and they like to make them to your measurements. Many people go both ways, your choice.

If you do go with a CV style you do need a way to correct your pinion angle. The CAs you have chosen will do the job. The correction shims may or may not be needed. When you have the jeep loaded to its usual weight and on flat ground the DS and the pinion should be on the same plane. To word it differently, as the DS rotates the u-joint by the differential should not be oscillating.

As far as advice, you are supposed to re-torque the pinion nut and be careful not to crush the crush sleeve any more. This can be done with a inch/lb torque wrench or, feel by a good mechanic.

 

These write-ups will help you out:

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up

the gear puller will help you remove the output shaft flange from the t-case. it really is a no brainer to use. regarding the coil shims, they kinda work but, being that you have a 2-door, the angle you will be dealing with is pretty significant and i might recommend the JKS adjustable spring perches instead as they will give you a lot more control as to where they need to be set at.

 

I second the advice pertaining to a two door & degree shims. They are a waist of time. I ended up torching my stock perchs & rolling them forward. If you really want a set of degree shims. I have a set laying around, only used for 5 minutes. The time it took me to set the Jeep on the ground and say f*** that.

 

What didnt u like about them? not enough angle correction or something else?

How about the fact that all these web sites say these driveshafts are for lift 3inches and up. Will I be ok with 2.5 inch lift in rear?

 

they don't provide enough correction.

regarding the amount of lift you have, yes, you should be fine. of course, it wouldn't hurt to take a measurement and call to verify as much.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JYWUb3LQrI

 

What does everyone think about teraflex DS? they have them at quadratec and
i can get them a lot faster because they are on east coast.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_201.htm