So I am installing my 4" lift on my 2 dr and am realizing that I will need new driveshafts sooner rather than later. Theres about a million threads on driveshafts, and I came up with a bunch of questions, and all the help is appreciated:

1. What are the advantages of replacing the stock flanges?
2. Are the driveshafts that use the OE flanges any worse over time or do they wear pretty similar?
3. How hard is it to replace the driveshafts myself?
4. Would it be best to get the Reel shafts that use the OE flanges to make the install easier?
5. And...I've searched this site a while, are there any write-ups on replacing the shafts?
6. Do I have to to both at once or can I get away with just the rear for a while?
7. Is it a better idea to just go to my shop and have some custom shafts done? (It may be cheaper this route, not sure yet)

Thanks for the help.

 

Forget the OE flanges.
If you have a good local shop by all means use them, but make sure they know what you want.
It's quite easy to do yourself, I ordered a JE Reel 1310HD front and 1350 rear from David and installed them both in a couple hours by myself. The air tools do make short work of a lot of it, but are not essential.

I actually used the Teraflex installation instructions (from their website). There's were the simplest, no rotational torque settings needed (LOL)!!!

Installation

Special Tools required for the installation:

• 5/16 – 12 point box wrench or shallow socket. You will need a 12 point box wrench to fit the head of the bolts that hold the stock drive shaft joints to the factory yokes on both the transfer case and on the axle pinion shaft.

• 1-1/8 inch socket for the front pinion yoke.

• 1-1/4 inch socket for the transfer case yokes.

• 1-5/16 inch socket for the rear axle yoke.

Note: Be very careful to install the correct yoke. Do not mix up the front and rear axle
yokes or you will damage the pinion seals and will have an oil leak.

Driveline Angle: Point rear pinion toward transfer case not parallel to the output shaft.

Control Arms: Rear adjustable control arms are required to adjust the pinion angle for the Rear Driveshaft.


1. Lift the Jeep and support it on jack stands or a
hoist so all 4 wheels are free to rotate. This will
make it easier to remove the factory bolts on the
driveshaft joints.

2. Remove the factory driveshaft.

3. Remove the pinion yoke after putting a drain pan
under the differential. You don’t need to drain the
oil, just a little will leak out when you remove the
yoke.

4. Install the new pinion yoke.

5. Remove the transfer case yoke after putting a drain
pan under the transfer case. Some oil may leak
out of the transfer case when you take the yoke
off, but there is no need to drain the transfer case
completely.

6. Install the new transfer case yoke.

7. Install the new driveshaft to the new yokes.

8. Check and refill oil as needed.


Torque Specifications:

T-Case Yoke Nut for Front and Rear Output (22mm)

Install and tighten a new yoke nut to 122-176 N·m (90-130 ft. lbs.) torque.

Front and Rear Pinion Yoke Nut (7/8”-20)

Install new nut on the pinion gear and tighten nut to 217 N·m (160 ft. lbs.).

5/16” bolts and U-bolt Nuts

17 ft. lbs. for the 5/16” bolts and the nuts on the U- bolts.

The pinion nuts can be very difficult to get off, but they will come off.
After removing the factory driveshafts, put the Jeep back on the floor, you can jack up either end of it when ever you need to spin the shaft for bolt access.
Use blue loctite on everything you don't use red on.

I preferred the JE Reel1310 HD/yokes for the front, plenty strong, smooth, and that's what a driveshaft should look like, no funky flange or adapter on the front pinion, just a yoke.
The rear on my Jeep is a 1350 JE Reel, it too uses a yoke on the pinion (flange at the xfer case), just like a real driveshaft should!
The only dust cover my setup has is the one on the front of the transfer case which came with the JR Reel yoke.
At first I didn't like the idea of no dust covers, but since they would only hold dirt inside, what's the point anyway.
I have a slight leak from the JE Reel rear transfer case flange, it barely drips, after 4000+ miles, it was nearly 100cc low.
One day I'll put my new seal in, or replace the flange with a yoke.

 

Nice post, this should go in the write up section

 

Thanks edwin...great info. Now I just need to decide whether I want to tackle this myself or pay a shop and trust they do it right

 

Great write-up, now you have to do it yourself

 

I got the teraflex rear driveshaft for my 2-door, I followed the instructions from teraflex and torque specifications, and then I took it for a test drive. At first it drove pretty well, once I went over 45-50 mph, the steering wheel started shaking pretty bad as well as the shift stick (pretty bad noise too!! Scared too!!!). I stopped, checked, thanks God everything seemed ok. I went back home (under 45 mph) nothing else happened. I have not drove it again, but I have been thinking a lot of what went wrong. I have rear upper adjustable control arms from tera and I have previously aligned the pinion angle. So it seems that the pinion is pointing towards the transfer case.

I will appreciate comments, advices!! Thanks guys!!

 

nice write up, gr8 information