So, I have come to the point where I am going to get new longer driveshafts. This is in no way disrespectful to the vendors or the manufacturers but WOW! I remember ordering shafts from a local supplier for my last Jeep and they were about 3oo bucks a pop. I do know that I want the 1350's and that I want an upgraded yoke system. Does anybody know the part numbers necessary to do the conversion and have the shafts made locally. If somebody told me that thes things came with an unlimited warranty, I wouldnt mind so much but for 1300 bucks, i would hope they would be indestructable. If I am asking a dumb question or something please feel free to flame me but be nice but I would really like some input on options. I know this has crossed some of your minds before. Thanks in advance.

 

I just installed the Tom Wood's 1350 drive shafts. Very solid. Don't forget that these shafts also come with replacement flanges too (not sure of other companies though) - that drives up the cost a bit. Tom also throws in free shipping, although they have a small packing fee. Here are mine being installed. :-)



js.

 

I went with the JE Reel. The Reel 1350's don't use a flange at the differntials as shown in your picture but a yoke. I thought there would just be one less thing to hang up on. They both use flanges at the transfer case and that is fine.

I've had driveshafts built too and was surprised by the cost. But never before have I had to replace the connections at the diffs or t-case. I think this really drives up the cost. You can cut the cost by going with 1310's that bolt up to the factory hardware. But I'm with you on te 1350's; just a bit more bulletproof.

 

A lot of the cost is indirect. In other words, not for the shaft at all, but for all or thr R&D that goes into it. Remember, you're not JUST replacing the drive shafts. You're changing to a WHOLE new drive shaft style. That takes some cypherin on the manufacturer's part. To replace the JK's driveshafts with something that wasn't designed for it in the first place.....AND make it work correctly, is not a short order job. Not to mention all of that, PLUS tha fact that you now have some really beefy driveshafts that you're gonna have to do somethin pretty stupid to screw up.

 

Yeah, it would have been easy if Jeep had just used a standard driveshaft. But no, they had to give as a Grand Cherokee driveshaft for a soother ride. It's like they don't realize who their target market is and that they are selling what is probably the most modified vehicle sold. I hate beancounters and those who empower them.

 

That is good information. Granted, I dont mind spending money on my baby as long as I know I'm getting a part (s) that is worth what I am paying. having the peace of mind knowing that I dont need to carry spares with me is money well spent. I had alot of initial problems with rubicon express shafts after I lifted my TJ. they were about 4oo bucks each from them and CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK is not a noise that I feel should be associated with 800 dollars worth of shafts. I fixxed the problem by sending them back after 3 attempts and getting some made locally for 2 hundred bucks each and didnt have problems. Im just trying to save stress and money by asking before I make a decision. Thanks for the insight!

 

so........is it possible to get the 1350 shafts with the flange type copnnection at the t-case. I have heard of alot of people with driveline vibes after taking off the dampner/ flange at the t-case. I dont want drive line vibes. Would be ok if it was a strictly trail rig but since it is a DD, I want it as nice and smooth as possible. Plus I like the idea of throwing on my old ones in case of a trail "incident"

 

My understanding is that no matter where you get them or whether they are 1310 or 1350 you will have a flange at the transfer case. But there are flanges and then there are flanges. One way to do it is to bolt an adapter to the stock flange. I don't care for this idea as it creates a longer arm; but it will allow you to revert to stock if need be. The need would take place on the trail and is anybody going to carry their stock drivesahfts around with them. Maybe if you tow your rig to the trail on a trailer.

The best way to do it is to replace the flanges off the transfer case. I did so and have no driveline vibes at all. Also the option of being able to revert to stock is only available with 1310's.

One thing to consider when going with new driveshafts is that you really need adjustable control arms to set the pinion angle. This is especially true in the rear as it's transmitting power as you go down the road. I did feel some roughness after putting the shafts on that I dialed out by setting the angle to within 1 degree of the driveline angle. That and whether you feel roughness as you acelerate or coast will tell you what you have to do. Previously I had the pinion angle set for the stock driveshafts where you split the angle.

Call both Reel and Tom Woods. They're both good on the phone and will answer lots of questions for you. And they'll tell you that you don't need 1350's. But I'm a firm believer in overkill so I went with them anyway.

 

The early JE Reel 1350 shafts could be bought for the OEM flanges. I don't know what their newer stuff has. As for the damper, I think that they eliminated those after the first few months of building the JK. I know my X doesn't have the damper. Do the Rubicons still have them?

 

soooo. Am I better to go with the system that replaces both the t-case and teh axle with a u-boly style connection or do I go with a flange connection. I contacted one company and I was assured that after building 100+ driveshafts for the new jk's , that they can build me a driveshaft that will bolt up to the flanges that are in place in a 1350 strength..........for roughly 350 bucks each. And yes, when I am trailriding on the Rubicon and Moab, I do carry spare driveshafts, and axle shafts. Going this route would allow me to toss on a spare albeit a factory crap one but would likely get me off the trail ..