So I was hearing a clicking noise that seemed to come from the front differential, but it only happened in 4WD, and was mostly noticeable when cranking the steering wheel to the right / left. Turns out that it's the front driveshaft (original equipment - 2010 Rubicon - 2.5" Metalcloak lift with adjustable control arms). I've looked for threads here, and on other sites, but haven't been able to find answers to some of my questions.

- Pros / cons of having the OEM driveshaft rebuilt? I assume the Rzeppa / CV joints can be replaced / rebuilt.
- Lots of folks making after-market double-cardan driveshafts. Many of them also appear to be using Spicer components. So, if I decide to go aftermarket: greaseable or non-greaseable components?
- Most of the manufacturers want to replace the transfer case yoke, and some want to also replace the pinion yoke. Some don't want you to replace either. Any advantages to replacing both yokes? Only one yoke?

I really have no idea, so I thought I'd ask the question to see what other folks know. Thanks for reading and replying.

 

If you want to keep the stock shaft, look at Teraflex's high angle replacement. If you stick with a stock joint, it will just keep failing due to the angle and the boot wearing through.

There are pro's and con's for greasable/sealed, but most people seem to be going with sealed the last couple years. Just note that the center ball will still be a greasable joint, and you will likely need to remove the driveshaft to get to it. (regardless of whether the rest of the joints have zerks or not)

If you have not been out to Tom Woods website, there is a bunch of good info there to browse through.

 

If you've allay gotten a ton of miles on the shaft then buy a new takeoff and do the TF rzeppa to it. You'll be back in business until you're ready for d60's.

 

nuthin & karls - Thanks to you both. Didn't even know about the TF kit. That's why I post here, when I'm unfamiliar with the current offerings by the manufacturers. Thanks again!!

 

If you wanna smaller diameter non factory style shaft the guys at Adams are great to work with. Replacing the tcase yoke is pretty easy, and you can stick with the flange on the axle to avoid under or over torquing then pinion nut