deekum1627

im getting a might be getting a 6 inch skyjacker LA from a freind but i need driveshafts so which ones should i go with and where to get them, i will be doing it all my self so i dont wanna have to do rear or front end work meaning pulling the gears out and stuff, does the shafts just bolt on or what thanks

bigbluejk

I know that I am gonna get blasted for this, but I say get some 1310 shafts. That way if your drivetrain gets bound up you will likely break a U=joint not a pinion or axle. The 1350s are a lot stronger and I think they are less likely to break.... making other stuff more likely to snap. Tatton shafts are nice, and priced well. look at jkjason's rig.

Dont forget the before and after photos.

The coast shafts from northridge look good, and have good stuff said about them. I have JE reels, which are ok. Dont get the OEM style ends tho.

jkJason

No problems with my tattons, they came with u-joint style flanges for the t-case an diff as well, and a great bargain. I went with 1310's for exactly the reason bigblue stated....I'd rather bust a u-joint than a ring or pinon nawmsayn'. You can't really go wrong with any of the brands people are running here, as long as you get the replacement flanges, thats key. The adapters for the stock flanges have been problematic for some. You use a gear puller (can rent one from checkers) to pull the factory flange off and put the new flange on. The pinion nuts are torqued really high so you'll need a breaker bar as well. There are write ups on here if you search for them. Oh.. and 6'' is big, are dana 60's in your future?? cause that would be another factor to consider.

mkjeep

http://www.coastdriveline.com/ Bolt on, no yolk change

bigbluejk

are there vibe issues like with JE reels oem style ones? That pushes the CV head out further and makes the je have vibe issues.

Nick08JKUX

I'm getting ready to replace my front with a local companie's shaft and I'm only replacing the yolk at the t-case and retaining the yolk on the diff. I don't want to have to mess with the crush collar that I've heard about and risk destroying my ring and pinion. BTW, I'm also going with the 1310.

I'll let you know if I end up with any vibration issues retaining the diff output yolk. I wanted to stay local in case I have any other issues with the shaft.

mkjeep

I never had any vibes, my front auto locker is causing some kind of back lash prob at the tcase. Before I got the locker, no noise, after noise. No matter stock or reel,samenoise.Replaced tcase, same noise. I really don't know now, gonna run it till it blows.

deekum1627

you guys are awosme, mkjeep thats just what i want bolt on. so how does this work i have to measure after i get my lift then they make it or can i tell them i useing a 6 inch lift and just get it send to me

mkjeep

The one's on the coast site say 3-6in of lift.If I were you I'd call and talk to them first. I had to send my first jereel back cause it was too short. They sent me a longer one with out question.

wiredawg_mg

I used a local shop in the area to build my front shaft. Left the front with the flange and switched out to a yoke at the T-Case. Most any local shop and make a double Cardin shaft to the same or better quality than a mail order company can. Just about everyone uses the same parts and techniques. Pick a good shop or know name brand like JE Reel or Tom Woods and you can't go wrong.