Im going to be ordering a 4" spring and shock lift since the la is no where in sight for a while..i will be upgrading to a long arm eventually. Do i need to replace either of my stock drive shafts for a 4" spring lift?..any recommendations for a solid 4" spring kit that is upgradeable to a la later? This is for a 4 door jk rubicon model

 

It would be helpful if you gave some additional information on your truck. 07-11 are different to the 12's due to the loop thing. 12's will need either and exhaust modification and/or the Teraflex exhuast spacer deal. I believe you will still want to replace your front Driveshaft for a 4 inch lift for all years.

The link below should answer most of your questions.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ery-Newbie-Has


I am biased to Rock Krawler since that is what I have but I hear/read good things about the EVO setup. I don't believe you can go wrong with either or.

 

I have a 2010 with automatic tranny.
From what i'm reading the front will need to be replaced. Can any spring kit be upgraded to a long arm setup? Also what all bracketry should i consider; pitman arm, trackbar, etc..
Discos for swaybar,

 

I don't do getting by..im trying to get lift and accessories and a front driveshaft for around 2000 range..then get a few buddys over with the lure of beer to help install

 

get a woods trust me you don't want to here that awful squeak and then see the grease line above your drive shaft... especially when there calling for 2 feet of snow the next day....

 

Ive already geared to 5.13s. Not conserned about control arms. Getting adjustable front track bar and rear relocation bracket that will come with a 4" spring lift. And only replacing a front drive shaft.

 

At 4" of lift, you will eventually need to replace the front DS. The rear will be fine for quite sometime. The stock front DS will rub against the tranny pan at full stuff when disco'd and rub against the tranny skid brace at full flex. This will tear off your center boot. Even with this torn off your still okay however very annoying. The real problem is the boot and cv joint at the transfer case end. At a steeper angle the joint is in a constant bind which will cause the eventual failure of the boot and joint. When you see a line of grease splatter across the underside of the jeep near this joint, you'll need to remove and replace ASAP. So if you can just get the replacement now, you won't have to worry about when it will fail. Oh, you'll want a double cardon style with unjoint type ends.

 

I've had the line of grease above my CV joint since I bought the Jeep with the lift on it. Just seeing a line/spatter of grease could simply mean that some of the grease got squeezed out as the joint/boot had to conform to it's new angle, not that the boot or joint is necessarily bad. I suggest that periodically you just run your finger around the boot and check for any actual tears or cracks in the rubber and give the joint a squeeze to confirm that there is actually still grease in there. If you see that more grease had come out, or you find any cracks or tears in the boot, then it is definitely time to change or upgrade.

 

Got the new driveshaft for 300 bucks!! A member of the forum bought it an didnt use it.. It's a reel driceshaft..had to jump on it! Now that makes me have around 1600 left to spend on my spring lift an installation!!!

 

Save ur self some money and install the lift your self cause it really isn't that hard and with a little common sense,patients,and the rite tools u could complete the task at hand and also hav more knowledge of how ur suspension wrks.