Dynatrac Prorock 44
#11
JK Super Freak
You still have to burn c gussets on as well as a tracbar bracket and lca skids or new brackets. Also most people cant set gears or weld so labor cost isn't included in that 865. Lastly those axles do not have castor correction which is a nice benefit
#12
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: St. John's NL
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I had Nitro sleeves hammered in and a full Artec front armour kit installed on my Dana 44 for less then a grand, thats parts and labour. Significantly less then a PR44. I'd put my axle up against any PR44 out there. I do need choromly shafts though. Suspect thats whats gonna blow on mine first.
#13
JK Junkie
I had Nitro sleeves hammered in and a full Artec front armour kit installed on my Dana 44 for less then a grand, thats parts and labour. Significantly less then a PR44. I'd put my axle up against any PR44 out there. I do need choromly shafts though. Suspect thats whats gonna blow on mine first.
#14
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Virginia Beach
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I've heard RCVs are a bad idea for D44s for that exact reason. The R&P will blow instead of a shaft. Easier to swap a shaft on the trail vs. the R&P. Would you say that's true?
#15
JK Junkie
#16
#17
JK Super Freak
If someone is not going to go larger than 37's and wants the castor correction the pr44 might make sense. 60's might be overkill in that case the jk44 pinion is beefy and the aftermarket housing also prevents the deflection that might be the cause of the gear failure.
There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...
I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.
There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...
I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.
Last edited by Biginboca; 10-02-2015 at 05:21 AM.
#18
JK Junkie
If someone is not going to go larger than 37's and wants the castor correction the pr44 might make sense. 60's might be overkill in that case the jk44 pinion is beefy and the aftermarket housing also prevents the deflection that might be the cause of the gear failure.
There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...
I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.
There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...
I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.
#19
My buddy and I both have the PR44 set up on 37's he's gone thru 2 RCV's and myself 1 fully covered by the lifetime warranty... R&P just fine
#20
JK Super Freak
You are probably only looking at a few hundred dollars to have someone cut and rotate your Cs. A lot cheaper than buying a PR44. I know that in my area, I can get one side of my axle retubed for $300. That is a ton more work and includes the cost of the tube itself, which isn't cheap.