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EVAP Canister

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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 04:55 AM
  #21  
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Do not relocate it. It causes the lines to leaks easier to get the evap skid it mounts in the same location. Toom me about 15 min to put the new one in.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 05:21 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mt shawn 37
Do not relocate it. It causes the lines to leaks easier to get the evap skid it mounts in the same location. Toom me about 15 min to put the new one in.
does it really matter if the lines leak? I mean, a skid is good and all, but its a 50 dollar part, paying 120 bucks for a skid hardly seems worth it! I'd have to break it 2 more times to make an ROI!
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 05:35 AM
  #23  
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You will get codes and gas milage will go down.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mt shawn 37
Do not relocate it. It causes the lines to leaks easier to get the evap skid it mounts in the same location. Toom me about 15 min to put the new one in.
I don't know man, I have mine relocated and have had no issues with leakage, codes, or loss in mileage. I replaced all lines with 5/8"OD 1/2"ID fuel hose and put clamps in everything. No problems, and it's tucked nicely above the axle behind the fuel tank.

The hardest part was modifying the mount and drilling the holes in the body tub.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JKred

I don't know man, I have mine relocated and have had no issues with leakage, codes, or loss in mileage. I replaced all lines with 5/8"OD 1/2"ID fuel hose and put clamps in everything. No problems, and it's tucked nicely above the axle behind the fuel tank.

The hardest part was modifying the mount and drilling the holes in the body tub.
Agreed. Did the same thing, as many others have, and no issues. Been over a year so far.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:15 AM
  #26  
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How close does the axle get at full flex to the canister when relocated?
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:18 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JKred
I don't know man, I have mine relocated and have had no issues with leakage, codes, or loss in mileage. I replaced all lines with 5/8"OD 1/2"ID fuel hose and put clamps in everything. No problems, and it's tucked nicely above the axle behind the fuel tank.

The hardest part was modifying the mount and drilling the holes in the body tub.
X2! I'm running the Die-Tech relocation/skid and have had no issues whatsoever. Picked it up used for $60 bux or so IIRC.

Rick.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #28  
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is there any relocation kit thats cheapest/easiest to install? i guess theres a DIY write up, but it involves drilling the body and I take my jeep swimming enough that I wouldnt trust myself to seal it properly
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:52 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sneck
is there any relocation kit thats cheapest/easiest to install? i guess theres a DIY write up, but it involves drilling the body and I take my jeep swimming enough that I wouldnt trust myself to seal it properly
The Die-Tech came with mounting brackets and bolts. I didnt need to drill at all.

Rick.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 07:01 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Guardguy
How close does the axle get at full flex to the canister when relocated?
I put mine behind the fuel tank to clear the rear differential, but you can put it above the diff with some of the relo kits. At full stuff of the passenger rear there is still maybe 5-6 inches of clearance from the axle tube.

Originally Posted by sneck
is there any relocation kit thats cheapest/easiest to install? i guess theres a DIY write up, but it involves drilling the body and I take my jeep swimming enough that I wouldnt trust myself to seal it properly
I just painted the drilled holes and then globbed some silicon on the hole as I put the bolts thru. An used some really large/thin washers. The silicon made a nice putty between them.

Originally Posted by Gossamer

The Die-Tech came with mounting brackets and bolts. I didnt need to drill at all.

Rick.
This would likely be a lot easier but I didn't want to spend the money. The most frustrating part was hammering flat the mount plate. Sledgehammer got some use.
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