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Evap canister relocation, gascap code

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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 04:58 AM
  #1  
la petite fumee's Avatar
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Default Evap canister relocation, gascap code

I relocated the evap canister on my jk Yesterday, and this morning I got a gascap code.
Yesterday was hot, I did 50 miles of road and all was clear.
This morning, was cold, and god the code from the jk,
My relocation was done with gas line tubing (gates), and I am pretty sure that all is tight and there are no vacuum leaks.
What I did notice is that the large line that comes from the gas tank fill line is a bit long, and has a bend into in that could accumulate liquid (gasoline) condensation. That is the line that fits on the white electro valve of the canister.
I will send a pick soon.
My question, the gascap code does it come from the difficulty of making a light vacuum.
Could condensation be my problem, if so, I may review the vent line to get rid of the low end .
Or would a code be issued because of excess length of lines,, if so, can we explain this.

And finally what is the concept on this thing, the vent line open when, and the purge line open when the motor starts,,

thanks all, ray
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by la petite fumee
... That is the line that fits on the white electro valve of the canister....
There is a small, delicate seal between that white valve and the canister. Most of the time that seal has been bungered up during the canister relocation, causing the dash light.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 05:14 AM
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That could make sence, while removing the tubing,

So mark, what can I do about that seal,
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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To all,

This guy Mark is incredible,

I openend up the canister valve, very easy just push on a clip and give it a quater of a turn. There is a 2 in dia rubber gasket, double lips on each side, of approx 1 mm thick, and it seals on two flat surfaces.

all I did is to lubricate with dielectric silicone paste, put back togetter and bingo, no more codes.


thansk for the insight Mark,

ray
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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I'm going to have to try this!
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by la petite fumee
... This guy Mark is incredible, ...
Uh, shucks, not really. Just hang around this forum long enough and you see just about everything. But, fortunately, I've relocated/helped relocate a few evap canisters, so knew this was a potential problem area.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Uh, shucks, not really. Just hang around this forum long enough and you see just about everything. But, fortunately, I've relocated/helped relocate a few evap canisters, so knew this was a potential problem area.
Thanks from me too Mark, now I have something to do today!
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by CTNEDGE
Thanks from me too Mark, now I have something to do today!
I hope it takes care of it.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Default I seen a kit for $75.00

I seen a kit for like $75.00 . It was 4 bolts,nuts,and washers ,1 steal mounting plate,3 pieces of hose and some hose clamps. couldant you just buy the hardware at your hardware store for like maybe $10.00 and some gastank repair straps and just use some ruber foam inbetween the canister and the body floor pan. Locate the canister in the same location that the production kit puts it.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by hardcoreoffroad
I seen a kit for like $75.00 . It was 4 bolts,nuts,and washers ,1 steal mounting plate,3 pieces of hose and some hose clamps. couldant you just buy the hardware at your hardware store for like maybe $10.00 and some gastank repair straps and just use some ruber foam inbetween the canister and the body floor pan. Locate the canister in the same location that the production kit puts it.
Yes you can, in fact some have re-located there's with just some bolts and nuts and never unhooked it.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...light=Evap+Mod

Last edited by mkjeep; Sep 15, 2010 at 09:16 PM.
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