Evap canister relocation, gascap code
I relocated the evap canister on my jk Yesterday, and this morning I got a gascap code.
Yesterday was hot, I did 50 miles of road and all was clear.
This morning, was cold, and god the code from the jk,
My relocation was done with gas line tubing (gates), and I am pretty sure that all is tight and there are no vacuum leaks.
What I did notice is that the large line that comes from the gas tank fill line is a bit long, and has a bend into in that could accumulate liquid (gasoline) condensation. That is the line that fits on the white electro valve of the canister.
I will send a pick soon.
My question, the gascap code does it come from the difficulty of making a light vacuum.
Could condensation be my problem, if so, I may review the vent line to get rid of the low end .
Or would a code be issued because of excess length of lines,, if so, can we explain this.
And finally what is the concept on this thing, the vent line open when, and the purge line open when the motor starts,,
thanks all, ray
Yesterday was hot, I did 50 miles of road and all was clear.
This morning, was cold, and god the code from the jk,
My relocation was done with gas line tubing (gates), and I am pretty sure that all is tight and there are no vacuum leaks.
What I did notice is that the large line that comes from the gas tank fill line is a bit long, and has a bend into in that could accumulate liquid (gasoline) condensation. That is the line that fits on the white electro valve of the canister.
I will send a pick soon.
My question, the gascap code does it come from the difficulty of making a light vacuum.
Could condensation be my problem, if so, I may review the vent line to get rid of the low end .
Or would a code be issued because of excess length of lines,, if so, can we explain this.
And finally what is the concept on this thing, the vent line open when, and the purge line open when the motor starts,,
thanks all, ray
To all,
This guy Mark is incredible,
I openend up the canister valve, very easy just push on a clip and give it a quater of a turn. There is a 2 in dia rubber gasket, double lips on each side, of approx 1 mm thick, and it seals on two flat surfaces.
all I did is to lubricate with dielectric silicone paste, put back togetter and bingo, no more codes.
thansk for the insight Mark,
ray
This guy Mark is incredible,
I openend up the canister valve, very easy just push on a clip and give it a quater of a turn. There is a 2 in dia rubber gasket, double lips on each side, of approx 1 mm thick, and it seals on two flat surfaces.
all I did is to lubricate with dielectric silicone paste, put back togetter and bingo, no more codes.
thansk for the insight Mark,
ray
Thanks from me too Mark, now I have something to do today!
Trending Topics
I seen a kit for like $75.00 . It was 4 bolts,nuts,and washers ,1 steal mounting plate,3 pieces of hose and some hose clamps. couldant you just buy the hardware at your hardware store for like maybe $10.00 and some gastank repair straps and just use some ruber foam inbetween the canister and the body floor pan. Locate the canister in the same location that the production kit puts it.





I seen a kit for like $75.00 . It was 4 bolts,nuts,and washers ,1 steal mounting plate,3 pieces of hose and some hose clamps. couldant you just buy the hardware at your hardware store for like maybe $10.00 and some gastank repair straps and just use some ruber foam inbetween the canister and the body floor pan. Locate the canister in the same location that the production kit puts it.







https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...light=Evap+Mod
Last edited by mkjeep; Sep 15, 2010 at 09:16 PM.







Just hang around this forum long enough and you see just about everything. But, fortunately, I've relocated/helped relocate a few evap canisters, so knew this was a potential problem area.