Everybody running RC 4" on a 2 door please read!!!
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: cambrigde
Everybody running RC 4" on a 2 door please read!!!
I Am looking for advice on what control arm / driveshaft setup I should go with for my rough country 4" lift.
My rear shaft boot has split so I figure it's a matter of time.
So what are you guys running? Inexpensive and worry free is what I'm looking for. I am curious as to what others have done to fix this problem.
Thanks a bunch
My rear shaft boot has split so I figure it's a matter of time.
So what are you guys running? Inexpensive and worry free is what I'm looking for. I am curious as to what others have done to fix this problem.
Thanks a bunch
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 392
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From: Clarksville, TN
I'm running currie arms, front lower and rear uppers. I actually haven't had any driveshaft issues yet, so I'm still running the stock ones. I did replace the rough country shocks with bilsteins, because the rough country ones rode horrible.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
Originally Posted by planman
Front lowers are what is recommended to adjust caster and front pinion angle.
Although at 2.5", you are likely fine without them.
Thanks.
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JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 84
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From: RI
Got an 07 2dr lifted 4" myself. I opted to go with all 8 adj ctrl arms so I could put the axles back to the orig positions. I bought the TeraFlex set, and am very happy with it. I also went with Tom Woods DS's for front and rear, happy with those too. I got about 6k on both, did one lube job on em and they are all in good condition still. Moderate off roading, n shitty paved RI roads 
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: cambrigde
Originally Posted by planman
I'd run Currie front lowers and rear uppers at the minimum. Because a 4" lift looks funny on a 2 dr with the lost wheelbase, I'd also run rear lowers to fix it.
I'd run a Tom Wood, Tattons, or Coast driveshaft.
You will likely need rear lower coil degree correction wedges and rear lower coil retainers. When you rotate the rear axle up to correct the pinion angle on a 2 dr, the rear springs end up bowing backwards and come into contact with the frame side of the trackbar and trackbar bracket.
Here is my explanation of control arms:
The upper rear arms are used to adjust the pinion angle of the rear axle when you add an aftermarket driveshaft:
The lower rear arms are used to lengthen your wheel base that is lost when you lift your rig. See how the rear wheels on this rig are more forward than stock because it was lifted 4" without rear lower control arms:
The front lower arms are used to either regain lost wheel base from a lift or to adjust the angle of the front axle for correct caster alignment, or both.
The front upper arms are used to adjust the angle of the front axle for correct caster alignment specs if the front lower arms were used to regain wheel base.
Caster shown in lower left corner:
So:
[*]There is no need for rear upper adjustables unless you run an aftermarket driveshaft.[*]There is no need for rear lower adjustables unless you feel a need to lengthen/regain your lost wheelbase caused by your lift.[*]There is no need for adjustable front uppers if you can properly correct your caster alignment specs with adjustable lowers.
At 2.5" to 3", you can go with either adjustable front uppers or lowers to inprove your caster specs.
At 3" on a 2 door, you may eventually need to run an aftermarket driveshaft along with adjustable rear uppers.
In either case, at 2.5"-3" there is no need for all 8 adjustable arms, and the money could be better spent on other upgrades.
I'd run a Tom Wood, Tattons, or Coast driveshaft.
You will likely need rear lower coil degree correction wedges and rear lower coil retainers. When you rotate the rear axle up to correct the pinion angle on a 2 dr, the rear springs end up bowing backwards and come into contact with the frame side of the trackbar and trackbar bracket.
Here is my explanation of control arms:
The upper rear arms are used to adjust the pinion angle of the rear axle when you add an aftermarket driveshaft:
The lower rear arms are used to lengthen your wheel base that is lost when you lift your rig. See how the rear wheels on this rig are more forward than stock because it was lifted 4" without rear lower control arms:
The front lower arms are used to either regain lost wheel base from a lift or to adjust the angle of the front axle for correct caster alignment, or both.
The front upper arms are used to adjust the angle of the front axle for correct caster alignment specs if the front lower arms were used to regain wheel base.
Caster shown in lower left corner:
So:
[*]There is no need for rear upper adjustables unless you run an aftermarket driveshaft.[*]There is no need for rear lower adjustables unless you feel a need to lengthen/regain your lost wheelbase caused by your lift.[*]There is no need for adjustable front uppers if you can properly correct your caster alignment specs with adjustable lowers.
At 2.5" to 3", you can go with either adjustable front uppers or lowers to inprove your caster specs.
At 3" on a 2 door, you may eventually need to run an aftermarket driveshaft along with adjustable rear uppers.
In either case, at 2.5"-3" there is no need for all 8 adjustable arms, and the money could be better spent on other upgrades.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: cambrigde
Originally Posted by DvsKin
Got an 07 2dr lifted 4" myself. I opted to go with all 8 adj ctrl arms so I could put the axles back to the orig positions. I bought the TeraFlex set, and am very happy with it. I also went with Tom Woods DS's for front and rear, happy with those too. I got about 6k on both, did one lube job on em and they are all in good condition still. Moderate off roading, n shitty paved RI roads