experience with prorock44 on low to no lift
has anyone installed a prorock44 or a prorock44 on a jk with lowlift or no lift at all?
what had to be changed to compensate for the lack of lift?
was a shorter driveshaft required?
etc
what had to be changed to compensate for the lack of lift?
was a shorter driveshaft required?
etc
why would u want to do this, stronger axles are for bigger tires which require a lift?
Here is your thread from yesterday asking the same thing. Read the reply from the company that makes that axle.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=prorock
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=prorock
the lift and larger tires will come, i just want to know what has to be done to install the prorock in the mean time
Here is your thread from yesterday asking the same thing. Read the reply from the company that makes that axle.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=prorock
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=prorock
which is why im asking those who have installed it on a jk with a similar setup so maybe i can get clear answers.
i know i will need a new drive shaft regardless because of the yoke, i would just like to know the ballpark length of the driveshaft and what i need to do inorder to make the 44 bolt in
To me, it would make more sense to do the lift and tires first, and just take it easy until you get the axle.
If you do the axle first, just get it with the yoke and pull that front driveshaft until you get around to doing the lift. Doesn't make a lot of sense to buy adj arms that will come with the lift anyway, and shorten a stock driveshaft that will likely be replaced with an aftermarket.
If you do the axle first, just get it with the yoke and pull that front driveshaft until you get around to doing the lift. Doesn't make a lot of sense to buy adj arms that will come with the lift anyway, and shorten a stock driveshaft that will likely be replaced with an aftermarket.
those answers didnt provide me with the info i needed, nor did the PM's i exchanged with dynatrac. i made a phone call to them yesterday and today. unfortunately they are not sure whether or not a shorter driveshaft will be required coming from a d30 and going to a d44.
which is why im asking those who have installed it on a jk with a similar setup so maybe i can get clear answers.
i know i will need a new drive shaft regardless because of the yoke, i would just like to know the ballpark length of the driveshaft and what i need to do inorder to make the 44 bolt in
which is why im asking those who have installed it on a jk with a similar setup so maybe i can get clear answers.
i know i will need a new drive shaft regardless because of the yoke, i would just like to know the ballpark length of the driveshaft and what i need to do inorder to make the 44 bolt in
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but i will be getting a lift and larger tires! i just want to build my jk from the ground up. idk if thats the right idea, but i would like to strengthen my whole driveline and be prepared for the stress of larger tires first.
my plan is to do a 3-3.5" lift trim my fenders and be able to safely run 37's.
my plan is to do a 3-3.5" lift trim my fenders and be able to safely run 37's.
To me, it would make more sense to do the lift and tires first, and just take it easy until you get the axle.
If you do the axle first, just get it with the yoke and pull that front driveshaft until you get around to doing the lift. Doesn't make a lot of sense to buy adj arms that will come with the lift anyway, and shorten a stock driveshaft that will likely be replaced with an aftermarket.
If you do the axle first, just get it with the yoke and pull that front driveshaft until you get around to doing the lift. Doesn't make a lot of sense to buy adj arms that will come with the lift anyway, and shorten a stock driveshaft that will likely be replaced with an aftermarket.



