Which front axle replacement and why? (Axle, shaft, locker)
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Which front axle replacement and why? (Axle, shaft, locker)
I am looking into replacing my front axle on my '13 JKU. PLease let me know your comments on any of the below items and please explain your answer/comment. Thanks.
Couple of questions:
- Would you go with Dynatrac PR44 or Teraflex HD44 and why?
- Would you go with RCV axle shafts or the new option from Ten Factory (u-joint style, chromoly) and why?
- Would you go with ARB locker or Eaton E-Locker and why?
Couple of questions:
- Would you go with Dynatrac PR44 or Teraflex HD44 and why?
- Would you go with RCV axle shafts or the new option from Ten Factory (u-joint style, chromoly) and why?
- Would you go with ARB locker or Eaton E-Locker and why?
#2
Sponsoring Manufacturer
To help with the recommendations here, need to know a little more.
1. What kind of off-roading are you going to be doing?
2. What size tires does your Jeep currently have, and do you plan on going bigger in the near future?
3. What other mods have you installed so far?
1. What kind of off-roading are you going to be doing?
2. What size tires does your Jeep currently have, and do you plan on going bigger in the near future?
3. What other mods have you installed so far?
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
2. Currently running Goodyear Duratracs 315s but planning on 37s in the near future.
3. I have a Rock Krawler 3.5 lift installed with their lower front/rear control arms and rear upper control arms. My rig is fairly heavy with front/rear bumpers, winch, rock sliders, engine skid and tools in back.
Hopefully, this helps.
#4
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
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For your uses, leave it stock for now with 35s and have fun.
Keep an eye out for a Rubi stock D44 front in the mean time.
Once you find a D44 and When you are ready, install 4.88 and your 37s.
Keep an eye out for a Rubi stock D44 front in the mean time.
Once you find a D44 and When you are ready, install 4.88 and your 37s.
#5
Sponsoring Manufacturer
"We know people who have run stock axles with 35s without any issues, and we also know plenty who have had bent axle tubes and broken center sections. We build our axles so that people don’t have to worry about axle failures; just enjoy your Jeep and know you can count on it to get you back and forth to work as well as over whatever trails you plan on exploring. Compared to stock JK units, Dynatrac ProRock 44s offer thicker tubes, better engineered center sections, the largest and strongest end forgings, and thicker brackets. With a 3.5-inch lift, we recommend our Unlimited housing which has more caster built in. This improves steering on lifted vehicles. Our ProRock 44 is available with either 5/16-inch wall tubes or massive ½-inch wall. All Dynatrac ProRock 44s have more ground clearance than any competing axles, and even more ground clearance than a Dana 30. If you are thinking of an ARB or ELocker, we sell both, and can also outfit the ProRock 44 with our JK44 axleshafts with 1330 U-Joints, or RCV shafts. When you upgrade to 37 inch tires, you won’t have to baby your Jeep or worry about bending or braking the front axle. You may also want to consider upgrading the brakes when you go to 37s. We offer our ProGrip system which is easy to install and provides a significant increase in braking power that you can feel each time you touch the brake pedal. You can always give our tech line a call at 714-421-4314 if you want to know more and get info on pricing."
Last edited by Dynatrac; 11-29-2016 at 05:38 AM.
#6
JK Freak
Why do you want to replace it?
Do you need a castor corrected housing?
Do you want a front locker?
Do you need to regear?
There's so much hate for the stock housings. Yea the tube diameter & thickness isn't great. The ends can bend causing camber issues. But for most people it will hold up if you know how to drive & aren't jumping the thing.
If you want a front locker & regear than going to a 44 might seem like a good idea but the price of these things is crazy when compare to the new 60 options out there. But beat down logging roads don't require a front locker or thick tubes. Run what you have and enjoy it. When something goes wrong then fix it. Too many people replace things because of shitty repetitive online info.
People keep telling me my D44s are going to explode but 6 years, 37s, chromo shafts & some cheap sleeves/gussets and they're still kicking. I am rough on the thing but pick my lines & understand when to use the skinny pedal.
But to answer your question...all my wheeling buddies run the PR44 & love them. One guy runs a Tera60 rear & likes it so I am assuming their 44 front would be of similar quality. The Currie 44 should be another option for you to look at.
Do you need a castor corrected housing?
Do you want a front locker?
Do you need to regear?
There's so much hate for the stock housings. Yea the tube diameter & thickness isn't great. The ends can bend causing camber issues. But for most people it will hold up if you know how to drive & aren't jumping the thing.
If you want a front locker & regear than going to a 44 might seem like a good idea but the price of these things is crazy when compare to the new 60 options out there. But beat down logging roads don't require a front locker or thick tubes. Run what you have and enjoy it. When something goes wrong then fix it. Too many people replace things because of shitty repetitive online info.
People keep telling me my D44s are going to explode but 6 years, 37s, chromo shafts & some cheap sleeves/gussets and they're still kicking. I am rough on the thing but pick my lines & understand when to use the skinny pedal.
But to answer your question...all my wheeling buddies run the PR44 & love them. One guy runs a Tera60 rear & likes it so I am assuming their 44 front would be of similar quality. The Currie 44 should be another option for you to look at.
#7
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
But I think I would like to go to 37s and if I do so I want to be prepped for them. I don't like to half way do things if I can manage to avoid doing so.
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#8
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Why do you want to replace it?
Do you need a castor corrected housing?
Do you want a front locker?
Do you need to regear?
There's so much hate for the stock housings. Yea the tube diameter & thickness isn't great. The ends can bend causing camber issues. But for most people it will hold up if you know how to drive & aren't jumping the thing.
If you want a front locker & regear than going to a 44 might seem like a good idea but the price of these things is crazy when compare to the new 60 options out there. But beat down logging roads don't require a front locker or thick tubes. Run what you have and enjoy it. When something goes wrong then fix it. Too many people replace things because of shitty repetitive online info.
People keep telling me my D44s are going to explode but 6 years, 37s, chromo shafts & some cheap sleeves/gussets and they're still kicking. I am rough on the thing but pick my lines & understand when to use the skinny pedal.
But to answer your question...all my wheeling buddies run the PR44 & love them. One guy runs a Tera60 rear & likes it so I am assuming their 44 front would be of similar quality. The Currie 44 should be another option for you to look at.
Do you need a castor corrected housing?
Do you want a front locker?
Do you need to regear?
There's so much hate for the stock housings. Yea the tube diameter & thickness isn't great. The ends can bend causing camber issues. But for most people it will hold up if you know how to drive & aren't jumping the thing.
If you want a front locker & regear than going to a 44 might seem like a good idea but the price of these things is crazy when compare to the new 60 options out there. But beat down logging roads don't require a front locker or thick tubes. Run what you have and enjoy it. When something goes wrong then fix it. Too many people replace things because of shitty repetitive online info.
People keep telling me my D44s are going to explode but 6 years, 37s, chromo shafts & some cheap sleeves/gussets and they're still kicking. I am rough on the thing but pick my lines & understand when to use the skinny pedal.
But to answer your question...all my wheeling buddies run the PR44 & love them. One guy runs a Tera60 rear & likes it so I am assuming their 44 front would be of similar quality. The Currie 44 should be another option for you to look at.
But I think I would like to go to 37s and if I do so I want to be prepped for them. I don't like to half way do things if I can manage to avoid doing so.
To specifically answer your questions:
- Do you need a castor corrected housing? --- I think currently I am ok on castor. Close, but ok.
- Do you want a front locker? --- I was really contemplating one or at least Truetracs.
- Do you need to regear? --- Yes, I think I need to regear.
#9
Sponsoring Manufacturer
I appreciate your input. I've been running the 315 duratracs for about 2 years now with the stock D30 and stock 3:73 gearing. For the money, I should probably just throw some 4:56 gears in and resolving to just run 35s.
But I think I would like to go to 37s and if I do so I want to be prepped for them. I don't like to half way do things if I can manage to avoid doing so.
To specifically answer your questions:
- Do you need a castor corrected housing? --- I think currently I am ok on castor. Close, but ok.
- Do you want a front locker? --- I was really contemplating one or at least Truetracs.
- Do you need to regear? --- Yes, I think I need to regear.
But I think I would like to go to 37s and if I do so I want to be prepped for them. I don't like to half way do things if I can manage to avoid doing so.
To specifically answer your questions:
- Do you need a castor corrected housing? --- I think currently I am ok on castor. Close, but ok.
- Do you want a front locker? --- I was really contemplating one or at least Truetracs.
- Do you need to regear? --- Yes, I think I need to regear.
You MIGHT not ever break that D30, but why live/drive/enjoy your Jeep with a major uncertainty hanging over you? With a PR44 or similar, there is no uncertainty, you're making a solid investment in your Jeep, and if you ever decide you want to push the envelope a bit with your off-roading, you'll be well prepared.
#10
JK Freak
It comes down to your budget & needs. A lot of people want things for self gratification...not implying that's you. 35s and a stock housing will hold up. When you start thinking of 37s then planning & decisions become difficult because of the substantial cost of aftermarket 44s. Personally I wouldn't buy one as you still have stock outers. If you want RCVs, Reid knuckles, spyntec hubs, big brakes & larger steering components then things add up quick and you're looking at 60 territory.
I wheeled 32, 33, 35 & 37" tires and the biggest gain was going from 33" to 35" tires. The 37" tires are nice but it didn't substantially improve the jeeps ability. It made some obstacles easier but they're not large enough to tackle the bigger stuff and I find myself thinking to go to 35s to make things harder or man up & go big and run the really hard stuff.
Good luck!
I wheeled 32, 33, 35 & 37" tires and the biggest gain was going from 33" to 35" tires. The 37" tires are nice but it didn't substantially improve the jeeps ability. It made some obstacles easier but they're not large enough to tackle the bigger stuff and I find myself thinking to go to 35s to make things harder or man up & go big and run the really hard stuff.
Good luck!