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Front prop shaft out of phase ?

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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #1  
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Default Front prop shaft out of phase ?

Hi,
I have been having driveline vibrations since having front new prop shaft. My caster is dialed in at 4.2*.
However still get some vibes from 60 mph onwards (not drastic but their to niggle away).
Wheels were RoadForce balanced 4 days ago and all torque settings/ball joints/bearings etc have been checked and ok.
So as its still there I was wondering whether the shaft is out of phase ? How do I check if it is lined up properly ? I have no idea if the shop just put it on and not line it up.
If anyone can put up some pictures so I can see what I am looking for I would appreciate it.

2009 JKU (4 door), Auto, Teraflex front LCA's, AEV 2.5" lift, wheels - 31.5" on the rim
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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If it's happening around 60+ mph, it may still be your tire/wheel balance.

Are you running aftermarket wheels? If so read on:

I out some XDs on the Tundra I had before I traded for my beloved JK and I used to have to get them balanced 3-4 times after every rotation. It always happened around 60+ mph. I'd spend hours and hours at Discount Tire.

This was before I learned about hub-centric vs lug-centric wheels and hub-centric rings. The guys at DT, who I bought my wheels from, never bothered to tell me I'd need these rings. Nor did they tell me through all of my subsequent tire rebalancing trips I'd need them. They were IMPOSSIBLE to balance.

I now have the AEV Pintlers because they are hub-centric and I never have these issues with my AEV 2.5 (with geo correction brackets and stock CAs) anymore.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by flomingo
If it's happening around 60+ mph, it may still be your tire/wheel balance.

Are you running aftermarket wheels? If so read on:

I out some XDs on the Tundra I had before I traded for my beloved JK and I used to have to get them balanced 3-4 times after every rotation. It always happened around 60+ mph. I'd spend hours and hours at Discount Tire.

This was before I learned about hub-centric vs lug-centric wheels and hub-centric rings. The guys at DT, who I bought my wheels from, never bothered to tell me I'd need these rings. Nor did they tell me through all of my subsequent tire rebalancing trips I'd need them. They were IMPOSSIBLE to balance.

I now have the AEV Pintlers because they are hub-centric and I never have these issues with my AEV 2.5 (with geo correction brackets and stock CAs) anymore.
Hi flomingo,
Wish I could say that it was the problem....however I still use the stock 17" alloys.
Appreciate the input though.
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 05:51 AM
  #4  
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Ok…..so I'm hoping that I may have tracked it down.
So I have new OEM shafts……on jeeeeeps advise I just have crawled underneath to have a look to see if I can find any marks.
Now on either end there is fluorescent paint spots…… however when checking the spot at axle end was at the 6 o'clock point and the TC end was at 4 o'clock is this the possible cause ? and my shaft is not in phase ?
Please say its so *prays*
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 09:06 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by steve_r2
Ok…..so I'm hoping that I may have tracked it down.
So I have new OEM shafts……on jeeeeeps advise I just have crawled underneath to have a look to see if I can find any marks.
Now on either end there is fluorescent paint spots…… however when checking the spot at axle end was at the 6 o'clock point and the TC end was at 4 o'clock is this the possible cause ? and my shaft is not in phase ?
Please say its so *prays*
The bigger question is if it still acts up at 60?

I'm not a drive shaft expert but if I read your post correctly, your now on your second set of drives fats?

if so I would think that the odds of two different drive shafts being bad is probably pretty low, you might want to look elsewhere...

matthew
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 09:30 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by flomingo
If it's happening around 60+ mph, it may still be your tire/wheel balance.

Are you running aftermarket wheels? If so read on:

I out some XDs on the Tundra I had before I traded for my beloved JK and I used to have to get them balanced 3-4 times after every rotation. It always happened around 60+ mph. I'd spend hours and hours at Discount Tire.

This was before I learned about hub-centric vs lug-centric wheels and hub-centric rings. The guys at DT, who I bought my wheels from, never bothered to tell me I'd need these rings. Nor did they tell me through all of my subsequent tire rebalancing trips I'd need them. They were IMPOSSIBLE to balance.

I now have the AEV Pintlers because they are hub-centric and I never have these issues with my AEV 2.5 (with geo correction brackets and stock CAs) anymore.
pintlers aren't hub centric.
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by olram30

pintlers aren't hub centric.
The older ones were.
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JKZinger
The older ones were.
yes, they would corrode and seize up on the hub. they changed the design and forgot to tell people. people believe they are getting hubcentric, when they really aren't.
but back on topic, sounds like drive shaft. if you already had tires balanced.
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by olram30
yes, they would corrode and seize up on the hub. they changed the design and forgot to tell people. people believe they are getting hubcentric, when they really aren't.
Why those no good, rotten, sneaky, sons-a...

Oh well, um they look cool?
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 01:53 AM
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If you have non hub centric wheels and feel the tires were balanced right and by a competent tech. Try loosening and tightening evenly in a star pattern. Always pay attention to how they mount your tires. 9/10 these guys rush it and zip them on without even torquing or evenly tightening.
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