Front and rear axle housing
So I have decided to put a front and rear Evo axle truss system on my ride. Full truss including the C's. So my question is , after I pull the rear ends do I need to stripe them done to just the housing? remove all the gears, axles, bearings, seals ...etc. before they are welded up ?
For the front housing you should pull the shafts, knuckles and ball joints due to the heat from welding the C's. If you're patient when welding the truss and don't concentrate on one small area for too long you shouldn't have to worry about the differential or axle seals.
We did an Artec Armor kit on my front axle and left the differential and seals in without issue.
We did an Artec Armor kit on my front axle and left the differential and seals in without issue.
Maybe you should hire a welder for this job? I am not very strong in these matters with welding, so it will be difficult for me to advise you something. However, I have welding at home, and I plan to be trained as a welder soon. I have always liked it, and I plan to take it seriously. In addition, it happened that I have no profession, which will be very handy. I researched everything and found out that Community colleges or technical schools' welding programs cost $5,000-$15,000. This is a great price and a great opportunity. So after the training, I will gladly help you with welding advice.
Last edited by StormaLore; Jun 14, 2022 at 06:19 AM.
Adds weight, almost no strength gain, adds no value to the axle, expensive, takes more time to do right that people realize, gives people a false sense of security so they think the axle is good for tires that are too big for it. Put that money towards a proper axle for the tire size you run.
Typical replies:
"Its only a couple hundred so I will try it anyway"
"they say it adds 30% more strength"
"I know a guy on the internet that runs a trussed dana 30 and 40's and does not have any issues"
"I have a buddy with a 110 flux core welder that can weld it so it won't cost me anything but the truss"
"I can't afford a set of Pro Rock tons and this will be good enough"
"you are a hater and don't know shit"
If you are thinking you need a truss then you are likely running too much tire for the axle and the strength of the tubes is not the biggest issues you run into when running too big a tire for the axle.
Typical replies:
"Its only a couple hundred so I will try it anyway"
"they say it adds 30% more strength"
"I know a guy on the internet that runs a trussed dana 30 and 40's and does not have any issues"
"I have a buddy with a 110 flux core welder that can weld it so it won't cost me anything but the truss"
"I can't afford a set of Pro Rock tons and this will be good enough"
"you are a hater and don't know shit"
If you are thinking you need a truss then you are likely running too much tire for the axle and the strength of the tubes is not the biggest issues you run into when running too big a tire for the axle.
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I know, paying the cash isn't fun, but the piece of mind you get by having an axle that is something better than 'marginally adequate' is amazing. Imagine not wincing when a hard spinning tire hits the ground.
This is just my opinion and I have no hard data to back this up… but, I’ll put it here anyways.
A stock axle is designed from the factory for normal city driving (even the big (not so) bad rubicon Jeep axles). Those forces are more or a less straight up and down movement from a mostly level suspension bounce. Now add larger tires and off-road articulation and abuse, the axle is now facing a whole different environment than what it was designed to take. Sure, upgrade the axle shafts and ball joints for bigger tires, but that doesn’t really affect the integrity of the axle itself.
I feel like (with what minimal knowledge I have of static and dynamic forces) that when the axles articulate with forces now being applied to the spring pads on the axle, and a rotating force on the axle due to the control arms, the axle sees stresses in a handful of forms. Imagine the axle articulated in a manner where the driver tire is fully stuffed and the passenger tire is barely touching the ground. There’s an absolute ton of force on the driver side spring perch, the driver side control arms are pushing the axle forward and the passenger side control arms are pulling the axle back. The axle is seeing a twisting force due to the control arms as well as a bending force due to the weight on the one spring perch.
Anything to stiffen the assembly and fight the forces mentioned above will help strengthen the axle and improve the durability of it.
A stock axle is designed from the factory for normal city driving (even the big (not so) bad rubicon Jeep axles). Those forces are more or a less straight up and down movement from a mostly level suspension bounce. Now add larger tires and off-road articulation and abuse, the axle is now facing a whole different environment than what it was designed to take. Sure, upgrade the axle shafts and ball joints for bigger tires, but that doesn’t really affect the integrity of the axle itself.
I feel like (with what minimal knowledge I have of static and dynamic forces) that when the axles articulate with forces now being applied to the spring pads on the axle, and a rotating force on the axle due to the control arms, the axle sees stresses in a handful of forms. Imagine the axle articulated in a manner where the driver tire is fully stuffed and the passenger tire is barely touching the ground. There’s an absolute ton of force on the driver side spring perch, the driver side control arms are pushing the axle forward and the passenger side control arms are pulling the axle back. The axle is seeing a twisting force due to the control arms as well as a bending force due to the weight on the one spring perch.
Anything to stiffen the assembly and fight the forces mentioned above will help strengthen the axle and improve the durability of it.









Fatigue of writing the same thing(s) over and over certainly makes us all a little jaded at times.