X2 or what ever it is up to for putting the locker in the rear. I've done most the major trails in Moab with out a front locker. Front lockers are great for stair step ledges that you are going straight up, and suck when you have to try to turn. I have the limited slip rear in my JK and it is no were near what my ARB is in my XJ. I have to work the JK a lot harder than the XJ to go over the same obstical.

X2 on a waste of money in putting a locker in the D30. If you sit down and really look at the numbers of a ProRoc and compare it against beefing up a D30 it comes out to about $1000 and you still have the weaker axle shafts. And its still a D30. it may or may not be sale able and if it does sale you won't get out of it what you have put into it, I would guess about half if you are lucky because every one would rather up grade to a D44 or D60. Its like putting a bandaid on a broken bone.

Another option that is out there is the RubiCrawler or putting in a Rubicon T-case. the 4 to 1 low range makes a big differance. I put a TeraLow T-case in my XJ before I put an ARB in the rear and I ran Metal Masher, Steel Bender, Hells Revenge and many others with out being locked up just fine. That's the beauty of mechanical advantage.

 

I second your math...if you look at what you would pay to sleeve/gusset/regear/arb your D30 it's about 1k less than buying a ready to go ProRock 44...and if you can sell off the D30, it closes the gap even more...this is why I am putting zero money in to my D30 and saving for the 44

 

Is there any advantage to doing a selectable locker in the rear? I understand wanting to turn it on/ off when turning in the front.

 

I agree with those saying don't put a locker in the d30 unless you are also going to upgrade the driveshafts while you are in there... otherwise I would wheel with extra driveshafts which actually wouldn't be that big of a deal since OEM d30 driveshafts are pretty cheap.

 

Drive shaft or axleshafts^?

 

If u rock crawl start with front. If u are a mud guy go rear. I'm a rock crawler and did front first and couldn't be happier. Huge difference pulling yourself over rocks versus trying to push yourself over.

 

I sleeved, gusseted and locked my D30 for a total of under $600.

The D30 is a stronger than most people think. I've wheeled the shit out of my Jeep for the past 4 years and always thought I was being pretty hard on it. When the axle was pulled apart to do the installs EVERYTHING looked great. When my shafts break, then I'll upgrade them.

I chose to do the front first and keep the worthless stock LSD in the back. I talked to reps from differential companies, locker companies, retailers, KoH racers, etc. They all had different opinions but agreed that if the plan was to do both eventually, I couldn't go wrong no matter which one I started with.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Your options are very much appreciated!

 

Yeah they drive better, you don't have to fight the locker when turning on dry pavement. Also on wet pavement, a locker isn't always a good thing either. Also I've known a couple of friends that have broken a rear axle shaft on a D44 on dry pavement with a Detroit in the rear, it could have been from hard wheeling, bad axle or something else. but the fact that it did steered me towards ARBs that and I have a compressor on the trail too.

 

I've done both front (d30) and rear but if could only do one would definately be the rear. It is a stronger axle and in my experience more useful. Major loss in steering with front locked.