I will be eventually putting 37s on my 2014 JKURX. I think I know where I eventually want to be with it, but I'm not positive. So, I'm looking for input on anything I may have missed and also anything I may want to do now so that when I do something later it will be an easier mod.

Current setup:
3" Mopar stage 3 lift. Some of the main components are Tera flex speed bumps, limit straps, Fox reservoir shocks, exhaust spacer. I also added the Tera flex monster track bar.

I have 18" Ballistic Jester wheels that I'm probably going to keep using with the 37s unless a great deal on some 17" wheels falls on my lap. There's very little value to my wheels now because they have so much rock rash on them, otherwise I'd sell them and buy some 17s. I am using 1.5" wheel spacers as well. The offset on the wheels is 0 (I think).

What I'm planning on doing before getting 37s:
Artec front truss, C gussets, and LCA skids. I have this kit already and have just been waiting to install it. I also have a complete set of Synergy ball joints.that would go on after the truss is welded on.

What I would like to do later when I can afford it:
Hydro assist and new diff covers.

Right now my questions I have are since I want to put hydro assist on later down the road is there anything I should do now before the truss gets welded on? Would it make sense to replace the tie rod and flip the drag link? Is there anything I haven't mentioned that I should think of?

 

What is a JKURX??

 

Tenth anny rubi

 

It's actually the model year after the tenth anniversary. It is the same as the 10th anniversary except no red seats and exactly the same as the hard rock edition.

 

Does anyone have any input?

 

How often are you offroad and what do you do (mud, rocks, high speed, etc)? If you stay at 3" you should be fine without flipping the DL. A new tierod would be beneficial if you are in the rocks a lot and hit it a lot, otherwise leave it stock. If you bend your stocker you can usually find another that someone has taken off and replace it for cheap. I would start saving for a bigger front axle and not put money into the stocker. Again, depends on your offroad habbits.

 

You are completely ignoring :

Ignoring the rear shafts,
Ignoring all of the super weak noodle like front end parts.

It sounds like one heck of a corner cutting half ass way to run 37" tires and have nothing but bad experiences. Good luck with that. Heck, go 40"!

 

My off-roading consists of one Jeep Jamboree per year, sand dunes, trails, and an off road park 2 or 3 times per year. The JJ is really the only time I see a lot of rocks and I try to try stay away from mud if possible. The reason I asked about flipping the drag link is I thought I read in a thread somewhere that it helps with clearance issues when I do the hydro assist. As far as my axle goes, I really hope to be able to stay with the Dana 44. The reasons I want to get 37s are for a little extra clearance and because I like the way they look. To me it seems like putting a Dana 60 in to run 37s cancels out any additional clearance that is gained due to the pig being bigger. As long as I am doing Jeep Jamborees I will not go bigger than 37s since that is the largest tire size allowed.

 

My opinion on axle shafts is I'd rather that be the weakest link versus having my gears be the weakest link. Will you be more specific about what you mean when you wrote "weak noodle like front end parts"? I started this thread to find out what other parts I may want.

 

Upgrading your rear shafts won't result in the gears being the weak point. Even on the front you'll benefit more from upgrading them, but not completely necessary. I often give advice to leave to front shafts stock to maintain a weak point that is easy to fix on the trail, but that is in reference to a Dana 30. With a 44 your ring/pinion will be strong enough to handle 37s, especially by the sounds of your wheeling. The rear 44 is plenty strong so you will have no problem upgrading the shafts and it's actually a good investment as they have a tendency to bend flanges and chromoly shafts will be a little stronger in that respect.