First timer replacing ball joints. Watched several tutorials and read the how-to on here a dozen times....doesn’t seem too bad...1 question i do have though is before replacing the axle shaft I’ve read to grease it. Is there a specific grease to use or not to use? Do I grease the entire shaft or just the splines?

 

Just the splines, I usually do a light coating of wheel bearing grease. It'll end up getting washed out with diff fluid anyways so don't go crazy heavy on it.

 

Thanks for the advice.....would it hurt to use marine grease? I already have some at the house.

 

I can't see where it would hurt, you're really not using much. I can't say I understand why people insist on greasing the splines, having had my front (and rear) differentials apart and replaced seals on both. The only benefit I can think of is that you'd get a minor amount of grease in between the splines and the spiders which would prevent potential seizing down the road. That being said- go gently back in with your axle shafts and try to hit the center. That's where your Saturday jobs can get expensive......a $12 seal that didn't like you jamming the assembly in there because you got in a hurry to put it back together. I've got the t-shirt, sadly.

 

Agree. It's not really the type of grease so much as it is being patient and careful reinserting the shaft through the new seal. Little on the splines and on the surface the seal will ride on the shaft is all you need. Doesn't need to be gobs or anything. If you didn't read it elsewhere, get a 13mm 12pt socket from the auto store for the bearing bolts. Also, you can pull the entire hub bearing unit out with the shaft, so no reason to remove the axle nut if you didn't see that yet.

 

thanks for the tip on the axle nut....I am having trouble finding a 36mm socket at work. Local autozone has them but I’d rather not pay $20 for a socket I’ll probably never use again.

 

Just thinking through other nuances of this task. couple random thoughts:

- the axle shafts have a small plastic ring on em down towards the splines. if you pull that shaft out and the ring isn't there, look down in the tube to see if you lost it and fish it out. These rings are only there to help guide the shaft back in. You don't need them, and if yours looks bent or whatnot it's not critical that you replace it.

- if you "borrow" a BJ press from the auto parts store, or if you buy a basic press, it likely won't have what you need to remove the old upper BJ. That's ok, just blow the stud right up through the top of the unit and then use the press to remove the BJ housing.

- a 2' breaker bar is useful when using BJ press. A lot of videos will show someone using an impact on the BJ press. To each their own.... I prefer hand tools for this particular job because there are times you can get off while pressing and the BJ press will bind up (as in the BJ is not going in properly). It's much easier to feel the press binding up when tightening by hand than by pneumatic tool that you just keep hammering on. If it's getting really difficult to turn that press, stop and back it off! It should never feel like you're gonna blow the press up.

- Pressing in the new upper BJ is a little tricky because of the angle of the C (you're not pressing in using a flat surface as the underside of the C is curved). Some thick washers or a screwdriver with a square shaft help even this out. Might be hard to envision.....it will become immediately apparent though when you get there.

- when you are reassembling everything, DON'T forget to install the ABS line bracket when putting the knuckle back on the new BJs. I typically realize that after getting the nuts torqued down on the new BJs....ugh.