Has anyone used a barpin or something to utilize the stock swaybar links but have a functional quick disconnect? I dont have very much free time to design anything myself, between school and work... If someone has a great idea that I can borrow, that would be much appreciated. Im tired of rolling around in the dirt while I unbolt the factory swaybar links everytime I hit the trail, but I dont have enough cash to do the anti-rock upgrade I so desire

 

Use a 7/16 th clevis pin and a couple washers on each side with a cotter pin that's what I did to mine

 

I did the same thing. I've been running it like that for almost 4 years and a little over 50k miles. The clevis and cotter pins are holding up great. The galvanized washers are getting a little ugly. I've been meaning to replace the washers with stainless steel ones, but haven't got around to it yet.

I picked everything up at my local Ace Hardware for just a couple of bucks.

 

HECK YEAH GUYS!!! That is extremely helpful! That should work for a good season or two until I justify spending the cash on an aluminum antirock kit. I think some more people should see this.

 

my one concern would be if you get in a situation where you don't disconnect when you should, have will those be strong enough not to break?

 

I was a little concerned about that initially. Very first thing I did was flex it out while still connected and checked everything out. I still kept an eye on them pretty closely for the first couple of months, but everything has been fine. I had planned to save up and buy some aftermarket disconnects, but this has worked so well that I'm sticking with it.

 

Does that not rattle like crazy? 7/16" is too small for the id of the link. Is it not a 12mm id?

I've been looking at this for a week or two and am not having much luck finding the right pin to fit. Im also a "bsr" freak so i dont need any extra noises. I would appreciate feedback. Let me know.

Happy wheelin!!!!

 

I made a set as well but used the next size up clevis pin, yes it was a few thousands to big but just like you I did not want it rattling around. I used a drill bit the size of the new pin ( can't remember exact size) and bored out the sleeve in the bushing. It takes a lil bit and you have to be careful not to get the bushing to hot, but once your done the clevis fits like a glove. The other thing I did was also buy some spacers (2 per side) to take up the gap from the end of the link to the cotter pin. Hope this helps. My pic does not show the spacers this was right after I installed the pins.

 

Thanks bro. I had considered something along these lines but was unsure. Glad you were the Guinea pig. Lol. Thanks for posting your pic as well.

 

No problem, if you would like I would sell you mine that have already been drilled. If you want to see how it works for you. I now have JKS ones. They only have about 7500 miles on them, just thought if you didn't want to have a backup plan in case you don't like it.