Alright so long story short I had a cracked exhaust manifold and been patching with high temp JB weld for the past few years. The patch would work for awhile and eventually I would hear the leak come back.

I've read that replacing with stock often results in the same problem down the road.

I also have read that shorty headers can cause problems with melting wires etc.

I eventually talked myself into going with headers thinking that I would take the proper precautions to avoid melting wires.

I used DEI titanium spark plug boots (1800 degrees direct heat) and even put some of the DEI cool tape on the wire under that for peace of mind. Burned the stock wire up in like 20 minutes. Bought replacements and put extra cool tape on tried to route them better (not much room to work with as you probably know) I maybe got an extra 10 minutes out of it.

Started searching for high temperature wires. Found livewires that are supposed to be good to 1400 degrees. Same thing with those, double layer of DEI cool tape and then titanium spark plug boot. Cylinder 4 lasted about 45 miles and melted.

I find it hard to imagine that these things are putting out that much heat but clearly they are! I do not know what to do. i wish I had the money for Ripp but that's not an option.

My other problem is that I installed the rugged ridge snorkel the same time I did these because access to passenger side was going to be nonexistent from wheel well afterwards. So, if the solution to my heat problems ends up being going back to stock, can I leave the header on the passenger side but have stock manifold on the driver? I haven't had any issues with the wires on the passenger. They are still stock wires, haven't even put the livewires over there. I know it sounds silly, but I really just don't want to deal with it if I don't have to.

Oh the headers in question are OBX shorty headers. I tried emailing them to see what they suggest and haven't heard back from them, go figure.

Any help is much appreciated

 

I forgot to mention that I also used a high temperature internal exhaust and header coating by Eastwood that is supposed to lower underhood temps. I figured this might be worth it if wires didn't melt....

 

You might need to figure out how to fabricate a heat shield. I'll see if I can find a picture. It just keeps the direct heat of the headers away from the wires.

 

Here is a pic I found online randomly. Head shields are pretty common with header installs. I put them on all my previous applications, and are especially handy when you have a tightly packed engine compartment.

 

Don't wanna steal the thread, but has anyone had problems with the RIPP headers with heat shields melting wires? If not, why not save up the cash and get them? I want to make a plan and put RIPP on my 2015 JKUR in the future so just wanting input. After reading threads about melted wires, I'm the type of guy that would save the aggravation and save the money for the RIPP. Just sayin'.....

 

I could save up the cash for the Ripp long tubes but my jeep is my DD so I really need to come up with a quick solution to get it back on the road and I don't have 1600 bucks laying around.

It sounds like I'm just going to try and wrap the current headers with the DEI titanium wrap and hope that extra layer will keep the heat under control. If it melts again, I'm going to have to go back with the OEM exhaust manifold and hope that it doesn't crack again.

 

I have had RIPP headers for over 30k with a supercharger do 50k. No burnt wires. Part of that is also the tune.


With your headers you may be running lean which would cause excess heat in the exhaust. Th JK uses a map sensor and not a mass air to decide fuel maps. It does not have the ability to account for large change engine changes


Just a thought

 

Put Ripp LT headers on a month ago with no wire issues, not using the factory heat shields but using the high heat insulating sleeves.
Also had the complete Ripp system ceramic coated.

 

I hear ya on that! I work offshore and usually work over extra weeks to pay for my mods. With oil prices so low, I'm not getting those extra weeks to start my JKUR build. I wish I had the cash laying around too!

 

Did you have the headers ceramic coated, or just painted them with this stuff?
I use long tube headers in stainless steel in every performance application I have, I get them ceramic coated inside and out, at a local coating shop called Embee Performance here in Santa Ana CA, and let me tell you, I can literally touch the primaries with my hands shortly after shutting of the engine, I'll suggest you to find a local coating shop and discuss your options with them with a good ceramic coating, get them done inside and out, it should cost you around 200-250 depending on the size of the headers, shorties should be cheaper.

Have fun.