HELP with axles and gear setup
So I need some help from all you axle/gear experts.
So after xmas I will be re-gearing BUT i want to do this while keeping my end goal in mind.
The end goal is 60's front and rear w/5.38's, ARB and 40's. Plus new drive shafts.
Currently Im running 3.73's, 30/44 on 37's. I dont wheel that hard or often as Im just learning but as I get more experienced I plan on wheeling more and on bigger things. I know the 30 is really the issue. Having said that, I still dont want to put a ton of money into strengthening the 30 when I know in the next year and a half I will be be purchasing the 60 for the front first.
So I guess my first question is the best way to go about this without spending too much unnecessary $$?
Can I re-gear to 5.13's front and rear now and still drop the 60 in the front even though it will have 5.38's?
I thought I read somewhere that its possible to run different gear ratio's front and rear as long as they were close enough???
Any suggestions or advice is appreciated, just keep in mind as I said earlier I dont want to spend the money to beef up the 30 when I know I wont be running it that long. The 44 on the other hand ill probably have for the next 2-2 1/2 years unless I break something major on it.
A local shop gave me an estimate of $1500-$2000 to re-gear both axles.
Thanks
So after xmas I will be re-gearing BUT i want to do this while keeping my end goal in mind.
The end goal is 60's front and rear w/5.38's, ARB and 40's. Plus new drive shafts.
Currently Im running 3.73's, 30/44 on 37's. I dont wheel that hard or often as Im just learning but as I get more experienced I plan on wheeling more and on bigger things. I know the 30 is really the issue. Having said that, I still dont want to put a ton of money into strengthening the 30 when I know in the next year and a half I will be be purchasing the 60 for the front first.
So I guess my first question is the best way to go about this without spending too much unnecessary $$?
Can I re-gear to 5.13's front and rear now and still drop the 60 in the front even though it will have 5.38's?
I thought I read somewhere that its possible to run different gear ratio's front and rear as long as they were close enough???
Any suggestions or advice is appreciated, just keep in mind as I said earlier I dont want to spend the money to beef up the 30 when I know I wont be running it that long. The 44 on the other hand ill probably have for the next 2-2 1/2 years unless I break something major on it.
A local shop gave me an estimate of $1500-$2000 to re-gear both axles.
Thanks
no expert here but don't run different ratios, you'll break it for sure! i just bought a PR 44 to get rid of the 30 and having the rear beffed up along with the PR 44. it's pricy but not as much as 60's and if you plan on doing a 60 in the near future don't waste you money on the 30 just get the 60 or look at a 44 for the front. i was considering a 60 but to cost difference wasn't worth it for me and my wheeling style. 60's are big time and big time money just my 2 cents
Why not just wait? I'm considering something similar but with a Prorock or teraflex44 for the front. To me it doesn't make sense to put anything into the 30 at all. Regearing the 30 is like $700-800 alone. Doesn't make sense to spend that much on something I won't even be able to sell for that much.
As far as the 5.38's and 5.13's I thought even if they were slightly off it was going to destroy your transfer case.
As far as the 5.38's and 5.13's I thought even if they were slightly off it was going to destroy your transfer case.
Thanks for the quick response guys. I wasnt sure about the different ratio's thats why I figured Id ask.
I was thinking about the regear mainly because even if I get the 60 for the front in the next year I still need to regear the rear too. So I was wondering if itd be worth it to just re-gear what I got for now to get through the next year until I can drop the 60 in the front.
I know the 60's are expensive but from what Ive read and the people Ive spoken to they said with 40's its really the best way to go.
Im just trying t avoid rebuilding the drivetrain multiple times.
thanks again
I was thinking about the regear mainly because even if I get the 60 for the front in the next year I still need to regear the rear too. So I was wondering if itd be worth it to just re-gear what I got for now to get through the next year until I can drop the 60 in the front.
I know the 60's are expensive but from what Ive read and the people Ive spoken to they said with 40's its really the best way to go.
Im just trying t avoid rebuilding the drivetrain multiple times.
thanks again
Originally Posted by JeepNoob10
Thanks for the quick response guys. I wasnt sure about the different ratio's thats why I figured Id ask.
I was thinking about the regear mainly because even if I get the 60 for the front in the next year I still need to regear the rear too. So I was wondering if itd be worth it to just re-gear what I got for now to get through the next year until I can drop the 60 in the front.
I know the 60's are expensive but from what Ive read and the people Ive spoken to they said with 40's its really the best way to go.
Im just trying t avoid rebuilding the drivetrain multiple times.
thanks again
I was thinking about the regear mainly because even if I get the 60 for the front in the next year I still need to regear the rear too. So I was wondering if itd be worth it to just re-gear what I got for now to get through the next year until I can drop the 60 in the front.
I know the 60's are expensive but from what Ive read and the people Ive spoken to they said with 40's its really the best way to go.
Im just trying t avoid rebuilding the drivetrain multiple times.
thanks again
Yea personally I don't plan on going bigger than 37's on 44's. 40's are a little extreme for what I do with my jeep. The money to run them right is sickening as well. I'm already looking at around $10k or more to go to 37's on 44's with lockers. Hopefully I can put the funds together before my 35's wear out.
Then throw in drive shafts, beadlocks, hydraulic assist steering and 5 40" tires themselves its definitely not cheap to run with the big boys.
Where in new jersey are you located? My buddy's shop is just over the dingmans bridge into dingmans ferry, PA. He charges 250 and axle to regear. You can order the gears and master overhaul kits from Northridge 4x4 for about 550. Cheaper than what you were quoted.
Otherwise as was said by others, if you can wait then just wait and put your money into your 60's. Do NOT mix gear ratios or try running close, definately a recipe for disaster. If you have to swap in one axle at a time and have different ratios then pull your front driveshaft. This way you can drive it, just can't use 4wd.
Otherwise as was said by others, if you can wait then just wait and put your money into your 60's. Do NOT mix gear ratios or try running close, definately a recipe for disaster. If you have to swap in one axle at a time and have different ratios then pull your front driveshaft. This way you can drive it, just can't use 4wd.
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Where in new jersey are you located? My buddy's shop is just over the dingmans bridge into dingmans ferry, PA. He charges 250 and axle to regear. You can order the gears and master overhaul kits from Northridge 4x4 for about 550. Cheaper than what you were quoted.
Otherwise as was said by others, if you can wait then just wait and put your money into your 60's. Do NOT mix gear ratios or try running close, definately a recipe for disaster. If you have to swap in one axle at a time and have different ratios then pull your front driveshaft. This way you can drive it, just can't use 4wd.
Otherwise as was said by others, if you can wait then just wait and put your money into your 60's. Do NOT mix gear ratios or try running close, definately a recipe for disaster. If you have to swap in one axle at a time and have different ratios then pull your front driveshaft. This way you can drive it, just can't use 4wd.
Thanks again


