Help with ball joints!
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,873
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From: 36* N
http://www.alloyusa.com/u-joints.html (scroll to the bottom where it says a division of Omix-ada).
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JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 2
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
Alloys are made by omix, no idea on Synergy though.....I wouldn't think so though :what:
U-Joints for Jeeps With Dana 30 or Dana 44 - AlloyUSA.com (scroll to the bottom where it says a division of Omix-ada).
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U-Joints for Jeeps With Dana 30 or Dana 44 - AlloyUSA.com (scroll to the bottom where it says a division of Omix-ada).
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 0
From: Torrington CT
yeah i know the alloys are, but if i recall correctly 4 wheel parts said the synergy were also omix hda just relabled, they even showed me in there computer where they each had the same omix hda number for the manufacturer number. Unless there system was just set up that way to help them sell either.
The internals are generally the same (since the alloys are pretty much a reverse engineered copy) but synergy's are formed from a sintering process, and post machined. Alloy's appear to be machined from stock. They're both chromoly... EDIT I just went back and looked at one thread and Alloy (Rugged Ridge) claims they use both 4120 and 4140...
Also, the way they are assembled is slightly different. It has something to do with the way the lower is preloaded at assembly. The uppers are pretty much the same, however.
To the OP, synergy and alloy are good, greasable, chromo joints out of the box. About the same price. I would prefer the original, sold by an american owned and run company (even if the guts are mfg'ed over seas), than buy from Alloy. Dynatrac are more expensive, but give you the option of being rebuildable should they ever wear out.
I would argue they're all of equal or close to strength, and huge improvments over stock.
Last edited by JKred; Dec 20, 2013 at 07:45 AM.
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 2
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
I would say no... there was a discussion on JKO a while back where Dave from synergy (Pig) talked about the differences. Synergy got their hands on some Alloys when they first came out and took them apart to compare with theirs... there are pics showing how close they are...
The internals are generally the same (since the alloys are pretty much a reverse engineered copy) but synergy's are formed from a sintering process, and post machined. Alloy's appear to be machined from stock. They're both 4340(or 4130, can't remember) chromoly...
Also, the way they are assembled is slightly different. It has something to do with the way the lower is preloaded at assembly. The uppers are pretty much the same, however.
To the OP, synergy and alloy are good, greasable, chromo joints out of the box. About the same price. I would prefer the original, sold by an american owned and run company (even if the guts are mfg'ed over seas), than buy from Alloy. Dynatrac are more expensive, but give you the option of being rebuildable should they ever wear out.
I would argue they're all of equal or close to strength, and huge improvments over stock.
The internals are generally the same (since the alloys are pretty much a reverse engineered copy) but synergy's are formed from a sintering process, and post machined. Alloy's appear to be machined from stock. They're both 4340(or 4130, can't remember) chromoly...
Also, the way they are assembled is slightly different. It has something to do with the way the lower is preloaded at assembly. The uppers are pretty much the same, however.
To the OP, synergy and alloy are good, greasable, chromo joints out of the box. About the same price. I would prefer the original, sold by an american owned and run company (even if the guts are mfg'ed over seas), than buy from Alloy. Dynatrac are more expensive, but give you the option of being rebuildable should they ever wear out.
I would argue they're all of equal or close to strength, and huge improvments over stock.
Thanks for the info, ive been wondering since they showed me that awhile back, I obviously didnt research it enough.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 0
From: Torrington CT
Made an edit to my above post about material type. If you search JKO you can find some of the old thread.
One very important thing to point out that I forgot before:
UNLESS THINGS HAVE CHANGED RECENTLY, ALLOY BALL JOINTS WILL NOT WORK WITH RCV AXLES. THE LOWER BALL JOINT CUTS INTO THE BOOT ON THE RCV SHAFT.
One very important thing to point out that I forgot before:
UNLESS THINGS HAVE CHANGED RECENTLY, ALLOY BALL JOINTS WILL NOT WORK WITH RCV AXLES. THE LOWER BALL JOINT CUTS INTO THE BOOT ON THE RCV SHAFT.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
I want thank everyone for their input. I think I'm gonna go with the synergy greats able joints. My rig got stuck 48 hours after the lift and tires were put in and it seems it broke everything with the steering, ball joints, drive shaft and front gear diff. Pretty much grenaded everything sitting under the engine. Thanks for helping me decide how to rebuild this thing RIGHT!
