Help finding thresd....on how to move the drivers seat back an inch or two.
I just read this thread at work last week but now I cannot find it. I've got the seat pulled out and taken apart.
It is the thread that drills new holes for the seat ...to... base fitting.
It's vague to me how far back to put it before you haveinterference problems.
Right now I can see if I drill 6 new holes for the studs back about 1", that would work but only give me an inch.
So now I'm wondering if I shoud just cut off the studs and have the thing welded on where ever I want it
EDIT:
It's evident that the back studs will do nothing but suck air, so first thing I'll do is cut them off.
EDIT: Done. Just finished. Got 2" more going backwards. I think that is the limit for that type nkof mod, but I just took it for a spin and I'm glad enuf. My knees do not jam my keys anymore and a little more room foor the left knee at the window crank.
step 1 remove seat....4 bolts , 18 mm.......use a breaker bar and six point socket....and get ready to use some muscle.....they are ON. I went to my mechanic and had them break them so I could take them off at home.
step 2 seat out....remove the 6 nuts holding the seat mount to the seat slider.
step 3 cut off the back stud on both sides. Grind flush so no burr to grab any stuff you may have on the back floor later on.
step 4 the measurement is about 10.560" center to center, You need to drill one hole in each base as the center from stud to stud that you have left is that dimension. One of the holes is going to fall part way into a bend. Don't let that stop you....it will still work.
step 4 fit the mounts and notice the right side one has some interference ....where the mount rocks on top of a welded bracket that you need to grind down. This is a bracket that holds the electical connector...so no harm with weakness. Once it fits fairly flat....it does not need to be perfect...there is one more thing to grind. When you assemble the mounts, the hole on the curve is the problem hole in that you cannot tighten a nut on it because it hits a 45 degree surface. I took one of the extra nuts that aren't being used any more (remember cutting off the studs?) and I ground off at a 45 deg angle a bunch of material from the nut and used the nut upside down for a custom spacer, Oh and drill out the threads so it fits over the stud.
step 5 optional if you notice up front there are holes in both parts which allows you to run a screw through and a nut underneath to get 6 full mounting screws as original design. I did not do that yet and am running with 4 screws. I believe I can add them at any time without taking the seats apart again. Just put the seat all the way back and they are accessible.
step 5.5 re-install the seat to the jeep with the 4 bolts.
You get 2 inches going back, and minus 2 inches going forward. Unless you are 4'4" tall I think you will be ok.
I am elated to have the extra 2" and I am 6'4".
This does not move the seat down but about an 1/8 inch or so. Not noticeable.
I've got pics of all this if anybody wants 'em.
It is the thread that drills new holes for the seat ...to... base fitting.
It's vague to me how far back to put it before you haveinterference problems.
Right now I can see if I drill 6 new holes for the studs back about 1", that would work but only give me an inch.
So now I'm wondering if I shoud just cut off the studs and have the thing welded on where ever I want it
EDIT:
It's evident that the back studs will do nothing but suck air, so first thing I'll do is cut them off.
EDIT: Done. Just finished. Got 2" more going backwards. I think that is the limit for that type nkof mod, but I just took it for a spin and I'm glad enuf. My knees do not jam my keys anymore and a little more room foor the left knee at the window crank.
step 1 remove seat....4 bolts , 18 mm.......use a breaker bar and six point socket....and get ready to use some muscle.....they are ON. I went to my mechanic and had them break them so I could take them off at home.
step 2 seat out....remove the 6 nuts holding the seat mount to the seat slider.
step 3 cut off the back stud on both sides. Grind flush so no burr to grab any stuff you may have on the back floor later on.
step 4 the measurement is about 10.560" center to center, You need to drill one hole in each base as the center from stud to stud that you have left is that dimension. One of the holes is going to fall part way into a bend. Don't let that stop you....it will still work.
step 4 fit the mounts and notice the right side one has some interference ....where the mount rocks on top of a welded bracket that you need to grind down. This is a bracket that holds the electical connector...so no harm with weakness. Once it fits fairly flat....it does not need to be perfect...there is one more thing to grind. When you assemble the mounts, the hole on the curve is the problem hole in that you cannot tighten a nut on it because it hits a 45 degree surface. I took one of the extra nuts that aren't being used any more (remember cutting off the studs?) and I ground off at a 45 deg angle a bunch of material from the nut and used the nut upside down for a custom spacer, Oh and drill out the threads so it fits over the stud.
step 5 optional if you notice up front there are holes in both parts which allows you to run a screw through and a nut underneath to get 6 full mounting screws as original design. I did not do that yet and am running with 4 screws. I believe I can add them at any time without taking the seats apart again. Just put the seat all the way back and they are accessible.
step 5.5 re-install the seat to the jeep with the 4 bolts.
You get 2 inches going back, and minus 2 inches going forward. Unless you are 4'4" tall I think you will be ok.
I am elated to have the extra 2" and I am 6'4".
This does not move the seat down but about an 1/8 inch or so. Not noticeable.
I've got pics of all this if anybody wants 'em.
Last edited by Smelt_1; Mar 17, 2012 at 07:49 PM.


