CaJeep07

Thanks again. Should I still do the Cam Bolt Eliminator so it's back to factory?

karls10jk

Yes, you've got to put the axle side back to where the factory had it and they brackets adjust caster on the frame side by adjusting where the control arms mount.

nthinuf

Don't worry about the negative/positive in that angle finder pic - you aren't at negative caster. But, if you are indeed at 4*, caster probably is not the cause of the flighty steering. So, you might get a second opinion. Either a free check at a shop or maybe try a different location. Some consider the c's /bj's to be less than accurate, and prefer the pinion flange or even a flat spot on the housing. This thread might be of interest.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-angle-336890/

Whether you pull the cams is up to you. They offer a limited range of adjustment, so you may be able to raise the caster a bit and see if it helps. If you opt for a different form of correction, you can tighten the cams and leave them there, or spot weld them so they can't move, or remove and add eliminators, or remove and weld the holes. Up to you.

For what to replace with, adjustable arms give the best adjustability, but are of course the most expensive. Many companies offer non-adjustable arms made for various lift heights (longer front lowers, shorter front uppers), which may be an option. If you choose to replace the arms, do a little research on the various joint types available.

Or as mentioned, brackets get very favorable reviews, especially since they handle both the caster and the geometry of the arms after a lift. (the downside is that they hang down a bit, so may limit clearance if you like the rocks.) There are several options for brackets. Aev are the standard, they've been out the longest. Ranchos are getting very good reviews because of the one-piece design. Whichever company you choose, make sure you get brackets with multiple sets of holes that allow for various lift heights. Nice to have some adjustability for future changes.

CaJeep07

Sorry been a while since I responded I was on vacation. I have since returned and I bought Teraflex Alpine Front Lower Control arms and the Teraflex Cam bolts eliminator washers. I want to be able to dial in the castor.
I also bought the JKS Drag Link Flip Kit and the Teraflex Exhaust Spacers.

I did get a friend to do an alignment for me last week so I could get all my numbers and my caster was left = 4.3* and the right was 4.6*. My Jeep does drive a bit better after the alignment but it does still feel a bit flighty. Do you think the caster looks good or should I try to dial it a bit around 5*?

Once I am done installing everything I will post how things went and let everyone know how it drives.
I did notice that the rear end is not centered (the front was only a 1/4"). It does have a rear trackbar bracket but no adjustable trackbar. The rear is about 1 1/4" further on the passenger side. Do you think this could be making it drive a little off? I will be getting a rear adjustable trackbar to fix the off-centeredness but my question is will this need to be sooner rather than later?
Thanks.

nthinuf

JKS lists a few cautions for that flip. Doesn't look like you have a drop pitman/bracket already, but pay attention to this one:
You don't want to be smacking the raised draglink joint into the frame when you stuff that side.

The caster actually looks good. Doubt you would feel a difference from another half degree, but go for it if you have time to experiment. Still a stock front driveshaft, right? (aftermarket double cardans can get some vibes with higher lifts and higher caster...)

What are the Toe numbers? What psi are you running, and what load rate. C/D/E?

resharp001

Caster isn't an exact science. Keep in mind that as you're raising caster, you're lowering the pinion and creating a sharper angle in your DS. Overshoot the target and you're gonna start to get some feedback in your DS as Nthinuf mentions. Aftermarket DC drive shaft will start to vibrate, and if you still have the factory, you're just stressing the CV joint even more. Best to shoot for lowest possible caster that still gives a decent ride. With factory caster at 4.2*, you should be good about where you are. I suspect you'll see a bit of a difference with the high steer installed. Some say they don't notice much, but I thought it was night and day on mine (3.5" RK springs).

1.25" seems like a lot for your rear axle to be shifted if you have a raised bracket, even if still using the factory TB. Someone posted this recently in the marketplace should you care -

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/market/347718

CaJeep07

The drop pitman, I was told not to do, do the flip instead. Yes?
Here is the actual report from the alignment and also my front lift which I believe does have the bumpstops. I am running mytire pressure at around 28-30 psi. It depends on the temp. I live in Palm Springs the desert so it goes up and down. The tires are Fury Country Hunter M/T 35x12.50r17 load rate E.

resharp001

Nthinuf was just highlighting some caution to verify you do not have a drop pitman currently installed on the jeep before you go and do a DL flip. You wouldn't want to flip the DL in addition to having a drop pitman arm. It's one or the other.....with most preferring to flip the DL (while using a bracket to raise the axle side TB mount).

CaJeep07

Maybe I'll put the adjustable control arms in and have them match the caster that it is at now. Maybe the high steer will make a big difference. If not I can play with the caster a bit but still keep an eye on pinion and driveshaft.
Yeah, I thought that may be a bit much for the rear axle to me shifted that much. I will look into the rear trackbar. Thanks.

CaJeep07

Ok cool, that is what I understood. No drop pitman. I do have the drag link flipped and the TB bracket to raise it.
Once I get it back down on its wheels with the Track bar raised will the axle shift? It does look like my front track bar is adjustable.

Will come back and let everyone know how it drives once done for sure.