EHarris

I've got an OME lift currently on my JK with the 2619 coils up front. After 125k of use, I decided to replace them. Between the rust and the way the front end was behaving, I figured it was time. I was able to get a new set for half price and took it. So all I want to simply do is swap the front coils with the new ones. Same company, same model number OME 2619 nothing different. Also would like to do the steering stabilizer. So this seems like an easy job only problem is that I've only done it once before and it was 9 years ago and a forum member was helping me. Soooo....

To swap the springs, Jack stands under the rock rails or back end of control arms? Jack under the diff to lower it? I've got JKS quick disco so those will be disconnected along with brake line extensions. Pull both shocks. slowly lower diff until coils can be pulled out? Put new ones in and jack back up?

The steering stabilizer is an easy one but I do have a flip bracket and the Synergy drag link, tie rod and tie rod stabilizer adapter collar. My question on that one is how do you know where on the tie rod the collar should be and in what direction. It doesn't seem like the bolt for the stabilizer collar faces directly upwards. Ideally I'd like to remove the collar completely, remove rust and put back on. I could mark the Tie Rod but that wouldn't tell me exactly which way to face the adapter. I only ask because an alignment shop screwed this up on me once and it ended up bending and breaking the stabilizer.

Sorry for the rather easy question, but i've got a trip coming up in 2 weeks and don't need anything going wrong. Wrench abilities getting stronger. Control arms are next.

karls10jk

To replace the coils- jacks should go under the frame (just behind the lower control arm mounts). Jack it up, place your stands (fairly high), remove tires, remove sway bar links, unbolt the bottom of the shocks, droop the axle. If you need extra room to squeeze out the coils then you can take out the bolt for one end of the track bar.

In the rear, watch the ebrake lines as well, they can hold up your progress. They come away from the floor of the tub with a 10 mm nut (x2) if I'm remembering right.


I recently did the same deal and got a little more lift. Ideally you'd also loosen all 8 control arms, jounce the suspension, then torque the arms......not everyone does that and it 'can' prematurely wear out the joints.

resharp001

+1, with taller aftermarket springs you often times have to remove the axle side TB bolt for extra droop, but with factory springs I'd bet you have plenty of clearance without doing so.

In the back, even after removing the e-brake line bracket that is holding up tot he tub like Karl said, watch the actual brake lines when drooping. those are usually your limiting factor. If you need additional clearance, unbolt the hardline from the frame rail for a little extra.

EHarris

Thanks for the info. I did the rear coils already myself to fix the rear sag about 5 months ago. I went from a MD spring in the rear to the HD. World of difference but I had to use a ratchet strap in condense the coils to just squeeze them in there.

I figured the front should get done now too. The pictures tell the rusty story. Lol looks like a pretty simple job again but only my second time.

EHarris

How about the steering stabilizer collar? Just curious to know how to set it up on the track bar and in which direction. I did figure out a way I could mark it since the gap in the collar sits at about 8 o'clock rather than at the perfect 9 and 3 (180 degree).

karls10jk

I guess I'm a little lost on your stabilizer question. So you want to take it off to clean up your tie rod and then reinstall, on the tie rod again- correct? If that's correct then just lift the tires off of the ground and cycle the suspension full lock to lock and make sure it cycles freely. As far as placement of the collar, you should be at full right and your stabilizer should be almost completely expanded, as it obviously won't need to travel any further to the right. Cycle left and check to see that the stabilizer isn't completely collapsed. It should have a little play room and if that's the case then just center it up.

That being said- I did a similar stabilizer flip and didn't take but 5 mins to center it up....many, many years ago. I've not run a stabilizer in a long time so I haven't had to deal with adjustments in a while.

EHarris

Thanks. That's all I needed to know. I just wasn't sure how it actually worked. I had a tire shop that did an alignment for me and when I drove it outta there the stabilizer got stuck in tube and I couldn't turn my wheel after a u turn. I had to unbolt it and put it in the back and it was complexly bent. Power steering wins.

EHarris

Well I may be stuck on this job right now. I don't think I ordered the correct springs? Maybe I have the MD in the front and not the HD. The axle is slightly lifted right now but I can't see all of this coming down that much further.

EHarris

I wrote in my notes I got the 619/617 lift.

I replaced the rear about a year ago and upgraded to the HD in the rear. They say 615 on the rear coils.

EHarris

Ok got it! I'll posts pics of the final.