Originally Posted by tgrt

I have JE Reel shafts as well. They'll make them based on the size of the lift you have. You shouldn't have to measure.

Originally Posted by tgrt

I've never known anyone to have good experiences with anything other than simple accessory add-on stuff. I'm sure there are some random good ones, but the impression I get is that mechanical skills can be learned on the job there. They'll never touch my Jeep.

Originally Posted by jayrav

Change the front driveshaft. Go with any of the sponsers here that make driveshafts. If I were you I'd change the rear too, but thats me...I like to over build things Also go with the 5.13 gears for more power

Here is a list of future add ons:
1. Hypertech
2 Diff covers(ARB)
3. Chromoly axels front and rear
4. Crown brake lines
5. AEV hood
6. AEV snorkel
7. Woods relocations kits for muffler, SS and evap
8. last but not least...as a matter of fact this should be next...a set of adj control arms. This will improve your ride.

Originally Posted by 08RUBIJK

You could try this out and let us know how it works...

2007 - 08 Jeep Wrangler JK and Rubicon 2 and 4 Door Models 5" Suspension System with SSV Shocks - Part # J4614SSV

Engineered by Jeep enthusiasts with sportsmen and rock crawlers in mind.
Trail Master coils and SSV shocks for a great ride on and off-road.
Standard quick disconnect sway bar links.
DOT approved braided steel, kevlar lined brake lines for front and rear included.
.156 Walled DOM tube replacement upper and lower control arm with flex joint for mavimum articulation.
Replacement front and rear track bars with heim joint ends for proper geometry and bind free movement.
An affordable package for the off-road enthusiast.
Fits 2 and 4 door JK, JK X and Rubicon models.
Easily accommodates 35" tall tires.
Kit includes detailed instructions and all necessary mounting hardware.
Easy to install: approximately 4 to 6 hours installation time.
OEM factory CV joints cannot withstand the new differential angles produced by lifting the vehicle thus wearing standard CV driveline prematurely. Therefore Trail Master Suspension strongly recommends upgrading to our front and rear double cardan drive lines for added durability and reliable off-road performance. Trail Master offers the convenience of purchasing suspension systems complete with drive lines or the option of purchasing the drive lines at a later date. Complete Kits: 2-Door Model PN J4615SSV / 4-Door Model PN J4616SSV Drive Lines: 2-Door Rear PN 951302 / 4-Door Rear PN 951304 / Front 2 & 4 Door Models PN 951303.

Originally Posted by rancid

sounds like a good plan.

Originally Posted by hawgrider1200

I have not done any research on the prices of gears, there fore I am not qualified to make any statement about this issue but it seems to me if ya want 5:13 gears you would be spending the same as if you got 4:88 gears. Now if it was me and I was using this for a DD I would not go with the 4.88's or the 5:13's. I beleive 4:10's are sufficient for 35" tires. If you are just gonna play with your JEEP go with the 5:13's. As for your lift. I believe a body lift is superior over a suspension lift. A suspension lift moves the complete weight of your vehicle to a higher center of gravity. a body lift leaves your engine tranny and transfer case closer to the ground therefore your center of gravity while still being higher than stock is not as high as a suspension lift. Since stock JK's such as the Rubicon come from the factory with 32" tires I would guess that you only need 1.5 additional inches to clear 35" tires. One fellow on this forum was saying he ran 35" tires with no lift at all. He installed aftermarker fender flares that allowed him to clear the larger diameter tires. That is where your ground clearance is gonna come from, larger diameter tires. If you can get the clearance to run 35's without a lift your center of gravity would be lower. Still be higher than steck because of the larger diameter tires. Higher center of gravity equals to more easily rolling your JEEP. Think hard on that.

Originally Posted by Breaktrack

So what's up with relocating the muffler and SS? Have there been problems? The control arms were planned when I do the lift, whatever that winds up being..lol.

Thanks,

Mac

Originally Posted by Woods

If you ever plan to wheel over anything that would end up hitting your axle tubes, then moving the SS is a complete no-brainer. The stock location of the SS is just in front of and below the front right axle tube. One hit on a rock and it's gone. There's a bundle for the Evap can and SS relo kits on my site.

The muffler doesn't necessarily need to be moved, but it is in the way. When it gets hit, it doesn't just put dents in the bottom of it. I've seen the four heat shield bolts (located directly above) punch holes in the muffler. Other reasons to move the muffler is to improve the sound and performance. I designed my system with the 1BADJK testing in mind. The feedback that I get from buyers is better power at higher RPMs and better mileage. My kit requires that you relocate the Evap Can, but it looks like you plan to do this anyway.

Originally Posted by N2rock

Yes, the evap relocation kit he makes is well worth the money and effort.