hoping to get a helping hand here, of course the first step is admitting i probably screwed up..
I needed a new drag link, when i received the one i ordered i discovered it was a flipped (highsteer) draglink. I thought well hey, i have a lift on my jeep so it should be cool right?
So I drilled out the knuckle and slapped that mother on. Ever since... it veers when I go through dips etc.
I am guessing this makes sense to be the reason for my issues.
So what should i do now to undo it. My main concern was because i drilled out the knuckle so going back to a stock style one may require more than bolting it in.
Would i need to get a new draglink and knuckle or would installing it with the sleeve and a castle nut be ok?

Surely i am not the first to do this..
I have referred to this board for so many things for way too long!!, It was time I joined and contributed some.
Thanks!

 

Nothing wrong with a high steer setup if you have a lift. But this induces the classic "Bump Steer" if your track bar and drag link aren't parallel. They need to be parallel or they will move in different arcs over a bump. That will force the steering to react.

Likey you need to get a track bar relocation kit. I got the SteerSmarts YETI X JK Track Bar Relocation Bracket. It's incredibly beefy and offers multiple mounting positions for both the track bar and steering stabilizer There are many others on the market. Having the track bar and drag link parallel AND horizontal will give a great ride. You may need to adjust your track bar to bring the wheels back to center at normal ride height. You'll need to adjust your drag link to center the steering wheel, but you must have already done that after installing the high steer. You'll just have to do it again after relocating the track bar. While you are at it, you might as well check your tow-in as well.

I have done a few driveway alignments on JKs and JLs and it's easy with a few caveats. 1st and foremost you need adjustable linkages. You really need a good OBD2 reader and appropriate software to get the steering wheel angle set to zero when the wheels are straight. Otherwise, you'll get occasional warnings, or worse - force the Jeep into limp mode. You might need to get an app called JSCAN to get the wheel angle. I have several apps and that was one of a few that had it easily accessible. Does require a one-time fee though.

Let me know if you want a quick tutorial on driveway alignments. There are good guides on this forum too.

 

Yup, sounds like DL was flipped and nothing was done to the track bar. Simple raised bracket would be the solution if this is the case. Also, the fact that you drilled the knuckle isn't a huge deal. If you ever did revert back to the factory position, you could just use that same tapered bushing that you used with the flip, just from the underside. I do presume you have a tapered bushing in there after drilling that out.

 

Thanks you two!
Obviously I need to do the relocation bracket or go back to a regular draglink, it worked with the old draglink even with the lift.
...And looking at the angles now on them now...I see it
I've done some driveway alignments myself, even fashioned some brackets that bolt on to the hub so I can measure distance in front and behind the hubs and set the toe.
Works pretty good!

I also have the jscan tool,
I recently had to replace the timing chains on my jeep and needed it to do the cam/crank relearn process. That job sucked, but saved me at least 3k. Shop wanted 4500 to do it. I had about 1200 in parts including lifters and rockers as preventative maintenance - you know cause i was basically in there anyways.

I was thinking the bushing should work in "either direction" so that is an option.

I've just never messed with Draglink, trackbar angles. and now I've .LEARNED SOMETHING
Appreciate the insight!

 

Some future advice - better to let the forum know what you are thinking before you buy and you will get turned in the right direction. Some people don't like to hear they oput a pile of good stuff on their Jeeps in the incorrect configuration but most peoiple appreciate the input. Remember we had a member called Dirtman who was an expert on Jeep suspension and wrote some great articles here and he was straight up and would say a member's design was good or no good. Like EG it costs $10,000 to reliably go to 37" tires and still have good offroad reliability. I listened to him and only did my suspension once and never had an issue except a swaybar link wrapped around the tie rod even though they were longer than stock.