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How to avoid wheel spacers

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Old May 2, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #1  
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From: Flyover Country
Post How to avoid wheel spacers

Wheel spacers not your preference? Read on...

I've identified a work-around for wheel spacers with aftermarket tires and factory JK alloy wheels. The subject was initially broached in this thread on my new KM2s, but since this post is specific to wheel spacers and how to avoid running them if you're like me and prefer the OEM wheels tucked in tight under the fenders, here's what you'll need to do.

First, my best friend and I installed a TeraFlex 2.5" BB. As owners of this kit know, you move the rear factory sway bar end links to the front and you're supposed to use the Tera supplied rear links that come in the kit. Trouble is, you must run wheel spacers to do it; the Tera rear links are big on the ends.

Instead, I purchased Currie adjustable FRONT end links for their 4" lift and was able to adjust them to about 11.5" center-to-center. Then I installed them on the rear of my JK, and INSIDE their mounting perches rather than outside as they come from the factory.

You'll see from the photo, the undercarriage is dirty. So are the Currie links. I purposely avoided posting right away on this because I wanted to test the setup to make sure there would be no binding or clearance issues with the inside of the wheel.

I'm happy to report, the setup works like a charm. There is abundant room between the top of the link and the inside of the wheel (despite the perspective of this poor photo).




The end result: 33x11.50s w/a mild lift and factory wheels without spacers and no rubbing or interference.




Last edited by opdsgt; May 3, 2009 at 03:35 AM.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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no binding or clearance issues with the inside of the wheel
Can't tell from the angle of that pic, but any chance of the upper bolt contacting the tire during flex? Looks close.

I'm asking because my upper bolts are making contact in a 6 inch arc up the frame when compressed. (need to either trim them or turn them around...)
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Old May 2, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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you must be rubbing on the front sway bar at full lock...if your not running spacers
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Old May 2, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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This idea might work with 33s, not with 35s.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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nthinuf, I've articulated the suspension fully with a big jack on either side of the JK. Next up is my best pal's front end loader. It's strong enough to literally pick the Jeep up via one wheel. I agree, the photo makes the distance involved look pretty slim, but it's larger than it appears. (I should just climb under with a tape for an exact measurement.)

eric1213, clearance up front is abundant. No danger of rub whatsoever.

jayrav, you might be right. I've got 33s on my JK (not sure what the outcome would be with 35s).
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Old May 2, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by opdsgt
nthinuf, I've articulated the suspension fully with a big jack on either side of the JK. Next up is my best pal's front end loader. It's strong enough to literally pick the Jeep up via one wheel. I agree, the photo makes the distance involved look pretty slim, but it's larger than it appears. (I should just climb under with a tape for an exact measurement.)
eric1213, clearance up front is abundant. No danger of rub whatsoever.

jayrav, you might be right. I've got 33s on my JK (not sure what the outcome would be with 35s).
So what are you waiting for. Slap on some 35s ;-) LOL!
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Old May 3, 2009 | 01:44 AM
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watch the flex when under a side load situation, this will take all of an inch clearance space away from you....
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Old May 3, 2009 | 03:34 AM
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That's the caveat here, tinman, you're exactly right. I can't duplicate hard core trail conditions with jacks or a front end loader. I go to Moab with my best friend who is a longtime off-road enthusiast (he drives a built Defender 90) and I just might fit spacers for the trip, then remove them after I get home. Cheap insurance I guess, right?
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