Can someone explain to me how the cam bolts work? I just received my black diamond 3" kit which includes cam bolt but the instructions simply say "install supplied cam bolts..." I did a search and I understand you can adjust your caster but cant find any real detail.

 

if i may, please DO NOT install the cam bolts. if you feel the need for some more caster, purchase and install a set of adjustable lower control arms. installing a set of cam bolts will require you to notch out the holes on your lower control arm axle mounts making them into slots. once you do this, it won't be easy to go back to a factory state. also, it has been my experience that cam bolts come loose especially when wheeling hard and with bigger than stock tires.

 

Any mod requiring axle brackets or suspension mounting points to be slotted is not a real good idea. A cam bolt is a bolt that has the shoulder machined off center. What this does is as the bolt is turned the shoulder forces the shaft of the bolt to move in or out in the slotted hole in the bracket. This in effect shortens or lengthens the control arm giving you an adjustable suspension. By slotting factory frame brackets or control arm mounting points you are removing metal needed for strength in these critical areas. Instead of possibly bending a bracket on the trail( which is something you can probably repair in the boonies) chances are you could rip a slotted bracket in two, causing some real heartache unless someone comes along with a welder on their rig. Adjustable control arms are the best thing to do, as wayoflife explained...

 

Wow, sounds like you guys just saved me a huge headache down the road. Thanks! dcblew, did you install the kit yourself? If so any suggestions, tips, or tricks? How long did it take? The directions are horrible. I will be installing on Wednesday and plan on using the write up on here for the full traction kit. It cant be too different...right? Also I got limiting straps in the kit. It came with it own separate directions. It says to use on 2007 and newer JK with Bilstein shocks. The kit came with the BD shocks. I have read that the BD shocks aren't so good. Just thought it was weird that I would get the straps with the BD shocks. Thanks guys

 

I used WOL's FT basic econolift for directions on my 4in Superlift. The BD 3in kit is basically the same as it is made by Superlift. His write up gives pics and will definately help you out. Minor differrences like bolt sizes in the kit and such. I have a 4-dr and didn't use the cambolts as WOL suggests. I didn't want to slot my brackets. It's fine for now as I basically drive it on the weekends only now, but it was my DD and I feel it didn't handle badly at all without the caster adj. Now this is coming from someone who's other jeeps were CJ's with 7inches of lift and 35's. I would say you would probably feel it more with the 2drs, but it's livable on a 4dr till you get adj control arms. If you have help and all the right tools you could do this lift in about 4 hrs or less. I had no help and went really slow and drunk alot of beer so it took me Sat afternoon Sat night and got done Sun morning AHHHH an allnighter, but it was fun.

 

Agree with everyone else here. I have been contemplating the cheap way out and its not going to give me the results I want. I am ordering control arms eventually.

 

so was there a trick to getting the springs in? I read somewhere on here that someone lifted the axle on on side to give them more room on the other side to fit the longer spring in. Is the the case?

 

Just a different point of view.. I have a 4" superlift with installed cam bolts. I didn't have to change the mounting holes to install these. I had the jeep professionally alligned to adjust caster. I have wheeled mine hard and had no issues. I understand that control arms are the best option, but if your're like me $ is an issue. I'm very happy with my set-up for now and can always add the control arms later. Just my

 

if you didn't change the mounting holes, there would be no way for your caster to be adjusted. having your jeep professionally alligned to adjust caster would have meant that they checked your caster, saw that it was still +4.2° as it would have been being that nothing has changed and left it as is as that's what they would have set it to anyway. adding more positive caster is not something they would have done without your request and is done only to help eliminate any wandering or flightlyness that you might have had. i'm sorry to say it but in the end, you paid your mechanic money to do nothing but look at things and maybe recenter your steering wheel but that's about it.

 

I have to agree with way of life and others.do it right and with right parts.Having suspension/steering components,shift,come loose or fail is a huge risk and not fun at highway speed.Plus adj control arms and track arm allowed me to fine tune my front end and get better on highway drivability than stock/non lifted.If money tight consider getting suspension/alignment right and purchasing tires and wheels at a later date)sacrifice vanity for common sense