I realized that mistake this morning while I was driving out to my ski training. I didn't take into account the angle of the ground. So, when I got home, I shortened the arms up a little bit to take into account that angle and when I put everything back together, I was dead-on 7*.

When you are setting the LCA at the length that the kit suggests, does this take into account your lift? What does your castor measure at after the install?

When I was following WOL's writeup on the Currie install, I set it to that specification, which was the same as stock. So, I had to go to the other writeup, the front-end alignment, which instructs how to change your castor angle, etc.

Thanks for your help in this thread! I appreciate it.

 

After making your adjustment to +6 degrees, do you have to have it aligned?

 

Just my 2cents but I have to agree with the control arms. I have driven a JK without them and Now mine which does have them and I wouldnt have it any other way. Before it was a work out on the highway to keep it in it own lane. Now just one handed cruising wiht ease. Hope this helps.

 

If you have the skills to set your caster to 6*, then the rest of the alignment (toe and steering wheel alignment) is a piece of cake. If you feel like it, take it in and get a pro reading to see what your toe and caster settings really are. I had thought I was 1/8th toe-in, but found out I was plowing at 1/2". She rode well, but my front tires wore much quicker than the rears.