I am nervous about Spidertrax spacers!
#21
JK Enthusiast
I agree, the guy at 4 wheel parts was full of BS. Just wanted to pass along and get some confirmation that the current generation spacers are okay. I have yet to see a post on any forum about a real life problem with spidertrax spacers.
Hope the budget will support new rims with more back spacing but if not, I'll have no concerns using spacer because I know I will maintain them.
Hope the budget will support new rims with more back spacing but if not, I'll have no concerns using spacer because I know I will maintain them.
#22
The "corrosion thing" he's talking about is basically summing up how metals of two different alloys or compositions will pass electrons between each other. The iron element in the steel passes electrons to the aluminum. Oxidation/electrolysis/something like that.
I don't have enough experience to say whether it'll have any real effect.
The loctite thing sounds like a bad idea, especially depending on what kind you use. Of course, I'm probably gonna be yelled at for saying that, but I'd rather get yelled at than to sit by while a guy puts 242/242/higher on his wheel studs. That'd be interesting in the occurence of a flat, unless the smoker's package comes with a torch.
Of course, I'm just a webwheeler, so I don't know anything about this sort of thing. But... the JK owner's manual says that to torque the lugnuts to 95 ft/lbs. Loctite 242 (blue, medium strength) has a breaking torque of 110 and a prevailing torque of 43 ft/lbs. Doesn't sound like a good idea, considering that wheel studs are just pressed in (unless they changed them). Loctite 222 (red, low strength) breaks at 53 ft/lbs and prevails at 30. That sounds like a perfect choice, except that rating is for a 10mm bolt. Loctite says that 222 will only hold up to a .125" bolt. We use the stuff alot in aerospace, because of the same vibration problems found in automotive. But, you know.... I'm inexperienced. Take it with a grain of salt.
I really wish they made 222 yellow. But, the stuff's been around longer than I've been alive, so who am I to nay-say...
I think that's a pretty interesting point that their JK spacers aren't hub centric. I was stupidly assuming that they'd be produced the same as their other items. I guess that makes them just as good as the old aluminum spacers of "yesteryear" that the other individual was talking about. But, even though I've looked that idea a little, I haven't got a clue whether it's really a good thing or not. I guess, not being hub centric, that they could shift and cause the stud holes to wallow out (if the lugs weren't tight enough, the studs didn't have a good press-fit in the axles ends, I don't know). I'm just trying to open the floor for debate, is all.
Edit:
produc"ing"
I don't have enough experience to say whether it'll have any real effect.
The loctite thing sounds like a bad idea, especially depending on what kind you use. Of course, I'm probably gonna be yelled at for saying that, but I'd rather get yelled at than to sit by while a guy puts 242/242/higher on his wheel studs. That'd be interesting in the occurence of a flat, unless the smoker's package comes with a torch.
Of course, I'm just a webwheeler, so I don't know anything about this sort of thing. But... the JK owner's manual says that to torque the lugnuts to 95 ft/lbs. Loctite 242 (blue, medium strength) has a breaking torque of 110 and a prevailing torque of 43 ft/lbs. Doesn't sound like a good idea, considering that wheel studs are just pressed in (unless they changed them). Loctite 222 (red, low strength) breaks at 53 ft/lbs and prevails at 30. That sounds like a perfect choice, except that rating is for a 10mm bolt. Loctite says that 222 will only hold up to a .125" bolt. We use the stuff alot in aerospace, because of the same vibration problems found in automotive. But, you know.... I'm inexperienced. Take it with a grain of salt.
I really wish they made 222 yellow. But, the stuff's been around longer than I've been alive, so who am I to nay-say...
I think that's a pretty interesting point that their JK spacers aren't hub centric. I was stupidly assuming that they'd be produced the same as their other items. I guess that makes them just as good as the old aluminum spacers of "yesteryear" that the other individual was talking about. But, even though I've looked that idea a little, I haven't got a clue whether it's really a good thing or not. I guess, not being hub centric, that they could shift and cause the stud holes to wallow out (if the lugs weren't tight enough, the studs didn't have a good press-fit in the axles ends, I don't know). I'm just trying to open the floor for debate, is all.
Edit:
produc"ing"
Last edited by Wladziu; 01-06-2007 at 04:25 AM.
#24
I understand. I was being stupid there, forgetting that the lugs for the wheels aren't what hold the spacers on. Somebody give me another boot to the head...
Still don't think it's a good idea, though, since the original studs have round heads.
Still don't think it's a good idea, though, since the original studs have round heads.
#26
Yes the back side of the studs are round, bu they are splined in. There is almost no chance at all of them slipping. You don't wory about your axle shaft slipping, you worry about it breaking. Modern day spacers like those made by Spidertrax and Terra have been used for around ten years now. I see no problem in using them as I have met several people with them, and no-one I've met with them has ever had a problem. But then again, you are a self-admitted web-wheeler.
#27
I had a dream once where I had to weld an extension to a wheel stud because the splines had lost their hold in the axle flange. It was a bad dream because the tire happened to be flat, and I was not close to home. Spending so much time web-wheeling makes me not sleep very well.
I'm not talking about the axle shaft slipping. I'm talking about the wheelie going roundy and roundy, and the widdle holey getting bigger and bigger, and the shiney part getting vewwy wobbly. And then, when jeepy person turns the wrenchy-thing, it just keeps turnin' and turnin' and turnin'.
I'm not talking about the axle shaft slipping. I'm talking about the wheelie going roundy and roundy, and the widdle holey getting bigger and bigger, and the shiney part getting vewwy wobbly. And then, when jeepy person turns the wrenchy-thing, it just keeps turnin' and turnin' and turnin'.
#28
Part number WHS-010
My boxes say WHS-010, are these not the right or "best ones" for the JK?
Is HUB or non HUB centric a huge deal, I can only go 1.25 as these just fit fluch with flare with sidewall buldging, 1.5 tread would be past the flare which is NOT what I want, thanks for the help!
Is HUB or non HUB centric a huge deal, I can only go 1.25 as these just fit fluch with flare with sidewall buldging, 1.5 tread would be past the flare which is NOT what I want, thanks for the help!
The spacers you have are NOT made for the JK for are made for the WJ Wrangler. Anyway the Spidertrax spacer WHS-010 is the spacer that is made for the JK. The WHS-10 is "hub centric" which means they are balanced. The Spidertrax WHS-006 spacer which is 1.25 inch spacer ARE NOT HUB CENTRIC, but they still have a 5x5 pattern and will fit the JK.
I spoke the Spidertrax themselves and they told me about the hub centric and model differences. They stated that if you use they 1.25 inch (WHO-006) they'll probably give some vibration at higher speeds due to being non hub centric.
I hope this clarifies the difference in the 2 types.
I spoke the Spidertrax themselves and they told me about the hub centric and model differences. They stated that if you use they 1.25 inch (WHO-006) they'll probably give some vibration at higher speeds due to being non hub centric.
I hope this clarifies the difference in the 2 types.
#29
Dumb question.....
Without taking them off to check how could I know, they are stock OEM jeep commander HULK rims, same ones sold by Quadratec on there site.... just want to make 100% sure I am doing everything the safeest way I can...
I know with wheels you can use lugcentric wheels on either hubcentric or lugcentric mounting surfaces, but you have to use hubcentric wheels on hubcentric mounting surfaces.
So as long as your spacers are lugcentric, and your wheels are lugcentric, then you're good.
So as long as your spacers are lugcentric, and your wheels are lugcentric, then you're good.
#30
There we go, then! Badabing, badaboom! Makes sense!
2k2, is this statement based on more past experience, general public knowledge, or from a particular source? Sorry to be an ass about it. If it's from a source, I'd like to know it.
2k2, is this statement based on more past experience, general public knowledge, or from a particular source? Sorry to be an ass about it. If it's from a source, I'd like to know it.