i got 40s!!
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
This build is going to be a nightmare. Save yourself a lot of headaches and money and rethink a build with 35's and about a 2" lift. Or at least stop and do a lot of research and with the 40's research steering and proper bs needed to turn a 40" tire.
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, OH
Like many have stated to properly run 40's you're going to need some D60 axles. And the rear should also be a full float because of the weight of our jeeps nowadays. It is'n't cheap running 40's. You'll also need to address the steering. Most importantly the breaks. You need to stop those 40's. A little insight a D60 full float rear runs to the tune of about $7,000. A front is more. Of course you can use junk yard axles but that takes more work and more than likely all your electronics will not work then. So your dash will have all kinds of lights on
JK Junkie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
From: CT
If you want direction, tell us your overall budget for the next 12 months, whether you will pay a shop to do the installs, what your intended on and offroad use will be, etc.
A 6" short arm lift will handle like crap on road. The geometry is very poor. The RC kit uses a drop pitman arm. Even with 35s, that is a terrible idea, but with 40s, it will destroy your steering box in short order.
I ran 40s on a 3" lift and 1" body lift. Then, I broke my rear locker, bent both rear axle shafts, and eventually upgraded to Currie 60s...and then bent one of my rear Currie 60 axle shafts.
