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Installing Front Diff Skid Plate

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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:22 AM
  #1  
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Default Installing Front Diff Skid Plate

I got a WARN front diff skid plate for Christmas and although the installation looks pretty easy, the directions recommend going to a dealer for it in order not to void the drive train warranty. The procedure looks to be just removing four bolts from the diff cover, put the plate over it, and replace with four longer torque capscrews. I presume there might be some leakage by removing the bolts.

Any recommendations as to whether I should do this myself or spend $75 to have a dealer do it and re-seal it?
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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JK Super Freak
 
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do it yourself

dont even think about going to the dealer
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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easy answer.... do it yourself. i saw armycop's jeep with the skid plate and his dont leak.. keep your shorter bolts and if you ever have to make a claim take the skid off and put origional bolts back on.
it should take work to break the seal not just loosening the bolts. so i would say you shouldn't have to worry.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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Do it yourself. I just did my front. I ran out of time and couldn't get my rear axle started. I went ahead and changed the gear lube and resealed the differential cover. I would suggest getting a Lubelocker from Northbridge4x4. That will help in the time factor. You will also need a torque wrench and what ever size socket for the Warn bolt heads.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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Here's another vote for do it yourself and another recommendation for doing the lube locker. I didn't use a torque wrench though. I just got it nice and tight and guessed.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Robar
Do it yourself. I just did my front. I ran out of time and couldn't get my rear axle started. I went ahead and changed the gear lube and resealed the differential cover. I would suggest getting a Lubelocker from Northbridge4x4. That will help in the time factor. You will also need a torque wrench and what ever size socket for the Warn bolt heads.
The install plans for removing 5 bolts on the diff, fitting the plate, and replacing the bolts with torque screws. Are you saying I should remove it totally, re-seal it, and then put the plate on?
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Godzilla
The install plans for removing 5 bolts on the diff, fitting the plate, and replacing the bolts with torque screws. Are you saying I should remove it totally, re-seal it, and then put the plate on?
Mine were seeping before I started the install so I decided to reseal the thing, while I was working on it. If it dosen't start leaking then you may not want to go that extra step.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Well the good news is that the plate went on pretty easily.

The bad news is that it is weeping fluid opn my garage floor as I write this.

I was not impressed with ther torque screw caps at all. I think the torque fitting was too small for the size of the bolt and it was difficult to get a good feel with the wrench on the screw head.

I am goint to bring the original bolts to a h/w store tomorrow and get new bolts that are 1/8" longer so I can torque them correclty. I also have a lube locker gasket on the way.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 04:57 PM
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a friend of mine just did this same exact thing to his Rubi, with the same exact results. he's taken it off and re-sealed it twice and it still seeps fluid....
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 02:14 AM
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i have that same skid on my grand cherokee and it leaks a few drops a week. i think there isnt enough pressure to keep it sealed. id recommend a full diff. cover like the one solid sells. they are very strong and with a lube locker they wont leak at all
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