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Installing LSD

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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #11  
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Just to clarify some info listed here-

The factory LSD is marginal, at best. You may or may not see an improvement in performance. It will be determined by the condition of unit. For an extra $350 you get a gear driven Truetrac LSD which will be a vast improvement over a factory clutch driven Trac-Loc.

Only gear driven LSD's such as a Truetrac provide better snow and ice traction. A clutch driven LSD (when they work) acts more like a locker and will cause the rig to understeer. Traction makes the clutch driven unit differentiate and slick conditions will prevent differentiation.

You MUST check the ring and pinion backlash before you remove the original differential. When you install the new differential, the backlash must copy that of the original differential. If this is not done, accelerated gear wear will occur and frequently the gears are very noisy.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #12  
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True-Trac sounds better all the time.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #13  
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After taking some close looks at my rear end and looking at what it would take to install, I can't afford to have a fubar while installing the LSD. I'll just save up for the TruTrac in a couple months.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JohnRodriguez
LSD are actually very good in snow and ice. detroit lockers and other mechanical lockers arn't very good to run in those type of conditions. I know this from first hand expeirience with the detroit. my 89 wrangler has a locker and my 73 torino has a locker in it. the torino will try and swap ends in the rain if both tires aren't air up exactly the same. it called stagger and a high horsepower vehicle will make you take care of tire pressure.

as far as the people who say to ditch the LSD for a locker. the traction control on the JK's almost negates the effects of a lockeer unless your actually rockcrawling. when I purchase my 08, i couldn't bring my self to pay $7000 more for a rubicon. it's not worth it with the software in the JK's.here is the basics for doing a carrier swap.
1. remove the axles
2. unbolt the carrier bearing retainers. mark them as to which side they came out of and which bolt hole is up side.
3. when you pull out the carrier make sure you keep the spacers marked as to which side they came out off. measure the thickness of them and this will tell you how much shimes you will have to add if the backlash does not work with the original spacers. it will also tell you how much spacers have to be in there to give you the propers bearing preload. if you have to use a spacer kit to get the proper backlash, then just move a spacer to the other side of the carrier.
4. purchase a carriers bearing spacer kit. you can buy a carrier intall kit form superior axle and gear directly. great people to deal with, no middle man. it comes with a set of bearings, marking compound and spacers. you will need the bearings to do the swap, might as well you get all the parts incasee the original spacers don't work.
5. put caps back on and I think the torque is 55 fl/lb for them. but you might check the # in a manual.
The lockers disable the traction control on the Rubicon.
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