2climbbig

Thanks for the ideas. Will start playing with it on Wednesday

2climbbig

Ok, mounted all brackets for the rear axle on both frame and axle, thought I factored everything but of course I missed one small detail as I welded everything in.

While all my mounting positions are designed to provide me with near stock handling... I overlooked the minor fact that I have clearance issues at full stuff with my top frame mount. Agh!!!!

The top control arms hits my upper control braket on the frame side close to the alxe. So, need suggestions on how to fix this screw-up! My second major setback.

You can see in this slide where my frame mount is stretched across two cross members... The issue that I am having is at full stuff, the control arm is hitting the end of the frame mount close to the axle


This is the point where the control mount is touching the frame mount. I could cut it back a bit, but not sure that may get me another inch or so of more up travel. I am currently sitting at 2 inches. If that.


Axle mount bracket... not much room to bring it down


Here is the frame mount brackets... I could cut off these brackets and weld on longer brackets... this will change some of my suspension dynamics, but the easiest to do.


I am open to changing the design all together for the top mount if anyone has any suggestions. I don't want to move the gas tank though. Eventually, I may end up doing that but for now... prefer to keep it where its at.

2climbbig

I have one more picture that shows where I am hitting the frame mount cross member tie.

wildace

Before you commit to this id recommend putting your driveshaft in and check for clearance

TheDirtman

You can add bump stop to prevent contact when stuffed. I am not being a dick or trying to be mean but your brackets and welding have have a lot to be desired and doubt if they will last any really wheeling. Running a 3 link needs more meat and some gussets on those link mounts or you are going to rip them apart. The poly bushings are going to wear out pretty quick as well. I got about 3 wheeling trips out of synergy poly joints befor they were shot.

I would agree with mounting the driveshaft and doing some flexing with what you have now as you may have clearacne and binding issues with the mounts like you have them.

wildace

Same here Ive destroyed several sets of builder joints and poly joints. Also I have my rear link mounted the same place thats why I suggested checking clearance cause that is in a critical spot for driveshaft stuff at full compression

2climbbig

Thanks and dirtman, while I always appreciate your constructive criticism, I am some what surprised of your general disdain. I always figured that one should help those that try. In the end, I will get it right as I always do... but it is always great to get feedback.

As for my welds... they are ugly, but never had one fail. In fact, they do remain a joke within my circle of friends... but bottom line, they have good penetration and hold up well.

I do plan on adding support to the cross members and if I cant make the 3 link work, I will move the gas tank.

Maertz

can you move the cross member brace left or right more? or put on on each side possibly? or maybe y or v out from the rear cross member you used?

Ringer

I would cut out that mount completely and build a new one that is more of a C channel to allow for the clearance. Also add some additional gussets.
Here is what I had when I ran a 3 link.

If you don't want to go this path, try notching out the end of your current one and adding some additional plating around it.

Maertz

this is a good idea also.