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jeep build with a super 60/sterling setup

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Old 03-05-2014, 07:19 PM
  #31  
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All the years I've had one ton ford trucks, I've never heard the term Dana super 60. Dana 60 been around since the 60s, but I've never heard the super part. Maybe newer terminology for new trucks. I didn't even realize ford still used a dana 60. I would have figured a dana 44 or smaller even on a F350 for the new trucks, junk they are.
Old 03-05-2014, 07:25 PM
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super 60s are nice, but not to common (at least out here by me) I believe there on f450-f550. They have massive c's and if i recall 1550 u joints in the shafts. I also believe they are 35 spline stock if im not mistaken.
Old 03-06-2014, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
super 60s are nice, but not to common (at least out here by me) I believe there on f450-f550. They have massive c's and if i recall 1550 u joints in the shafts. I also believe they are 35 spline stock if im not mistaken.
You are correct, but they did come in the F350s as well. However, it was optional. That said, the super 60 also uses a 10 inch ring versus a 9-3/4" ring and has 10 more degrees in turning radius. Most axles vary between 35 and 40 degrees, but the super 60 has 48 degrees. This is one of the reasons why the C's are so big and why they went with the 1550 u-joints. The feedback from F350 owners on the turning radius of that truck is extremely positive.

9 days and counting before my jeep goes on jack stands.
Old 03-06-2014, 05:54 PM
  #34  
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Ugh.... where's the gun?

So much knowledge..... so much bullshit!

Super Duty axles..... 2005+

Front facts:
The Super 60 has been (or should have been) under most every 350 made since 2005 (and a LOT of 250s have them as well.... my 2005 set does, as well as the set under my 2012).
The tube is 1/2" thick and the knuckles/C's are considerably larger and will take a 1550 u-joint.
The ring gear is larger at 10", but takes the old 9.75 internals as well.
Hubs were changed in 2005+ axles.
35 spline outers.
These axles are slightly wider than the 1999-2004 SD axle.
Aftermarket support is complete, but some items may have only one source.

Rear facts:
There have been two upgrades to the rear that I know of since 2005..... in 2011 they went to a 37 spline pinion and in 13 or 14 another change was made, but I am not exactly sure.
There is ZERO aftermarket support for axle shafts in the rear of these, but they are 1.5" thick and hard (but not impossible) to break. Spares can be difficult to find, so have a set ready.
The rest of the aftermarket is there, but as with the front, some may only have one source.
Shafts from 2005-current will work in 2005+ axles.

Now.... my understanding is that the fronts have 54 teeth and work with the JK sensors. I believe this is exactly what Currie is doing with their unit bearings (although, I've heard they use the 450 UB). The Procal should be able to correct for that slight difference. Pitch.... distance... etc on the front rings should be close enough for the JK to be happy from my understanding. While I have not walked down this path with mine, I have done extensive research and while some of these are educated guesses, I'd put money on them working as I believe they should.

The rears on the other hand are interesting to me. If memory serves, they are 104 teeth, but put out the same signal the fronts do to the computer. My guess here is that the signal isn't modified in any way and to the PCM, all look the same in format. My plan is to try the rear tone ring to gain the signal, but it goes through the ABS system. My feeling here is while the PCM might just take the raw signal from the wheel sensor, the ABS may play a role in how the computer interacts with it.

What does all that mean to you? Well, from the way it sounds, you haven't deleted anything, so you might want to see what splicing those wires from that rear sensor will do for you. If you don't mind a dash light or three and despise ABS, only one is necessary to gain the speed signal. I have talked to people that have claimed they spliced two into two and it worked fine, but have not spent anytime thinking on that.

Your front link placement looks fine, might want to put the axle end outboard a little more to gain clearance (as stated already).

Last edited by ABENDX; 03-06-2014 at 05:59 PM.
Old 03-06-2014, 07:50 PM
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I knew the axle tubes are thick as my tube diameter is 3.75 inches. I did not know they put this axle in the F250. Learn something new everyday. As for the rear, the 2012 F350 did move the rear sensor to the hub and I Know this because I ordered my tone rings from ford using the 2012 F350 as my reference. I will provide you with the part number in the morning.. I will definitely keep an eye out on the interference.

I am not sure if I want to keep that skid plate under my engine or get something that just covers the oil pan.. it would save some weight. If I keep the skid I may have to modify it.
Old 03-06-2014, 08:33 PM
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It will be interesting to see how well these separated rings work for you.

If you have the time and don't mind experimenting, it'd be nice to get a solid answer on the stock ring in that Sterling. I really think, from everything I have studied, that it should work with the JK electronics.

I have the info in the shop, I'll get it to you tomorrow regarding which colors to splice if you dare.
Old 03-07-2014, 05:48 AM
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It would be good to Know. That said since I already pulled the ring out I will hold off until I see if I am successful with the two tone rings. So if you are interested, the tone rings for the rear sterling can be found for any F250, 350,450, and 550 between the years 2011 and 2012. The part number is BC37-2C180-B and Ford calls it an indicator.
Old 03-07-2014, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 2climbbig
It would be good to Know. That said since I already pulled the ring out I will hold off until I see if I am successful with the two tone rings. So if you are interested, the tone rings for the rear sterling can be found for any F250, 350,450, and 550 between the years 2011 and 2012. The part number is BC37-2C180-B and Ford calls it an indicator.
Thanks for the info bud.... when I get the time to play with mine, I'll report back on the findings. Looking forward to hearing your's.
Old 03-11-2014, 09:55 AM
  #39  
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Well, 4 days and counting. I am still waiting for my coilovers to arrive and gettiing a bit nervous. They were suppose to ship it out last week. Everytime I call FOA they tell me they will be shipping it. Considering I ordered them 3-1/2 weeks ago, I think my feelings are justified.

That said, I was able to get a hold of a 220 volt plasma cutter... now i just need to find a 220 volt outlet. I think my pool pump is 220. Will see if I can tap into that power source.

Back to the reason for this post... I took a before picture so we having something to compare too... In addtion, I have measured my current turn radius to see if it improves with the new axle.

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Old 03-15-2014, 06:05 PM
  #40  
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Day 1: Pulled the front of the jeep into the garage, lifted it, removed the dana 30, cut out all brackets except the shock towers (I forgot about those until I starting looking at placement. I moved the new axle under the jeep then designed the brackets for the lower control arms for both the frame and axle. The frame mount brackets are cut out but I still need to cut out the axle side mounts. Pictures below.

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Here are some pics of the clearance

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Looks as though I will have to mount the front lower brackets under the frame versus the inside of the frame for proper alignment. The drivers side axle tube is so small, I don't have much of an option.

That said, I should have more options for the rear.


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