Jeep Overland Edition
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Fond du Lac, WI
I also have another question then. I recently bought some stock 17in rims from untold (funny guy by the way) they look like the rubicon rims but powder coated but if I did want to put 33" tires on there what size would be the best for width at 33" without any rubbing and a mild 2" coil spring lift?
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 1
From: Stamford, CT
As long as you go with a coil lift instead of a BB, you should be good. The stock springs are known to sag on the 2" BB's. Of course this still depends on exactly how much weight your planning. For the typical heavy bumpers, winch and heavy spare, there should be no problems with sag on an aftermarket coil lift.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: West Chester, PA
Check out Expedition Portal's forum
Jeep Rubicon "Overland," as prepared by Mopar Underground
------------------------------------------
2009 Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon 3.7L V6, automatic transmission (about $35,000)
changed stock 4.11 gearing to 5.13 (about $350 parts)
AEV Front Bumper (Mopar catalog P5155352 $1,620)
Warn 9.5 Ti winch (Mopar 82209325AB $1,555)
Viking synthetic winch line, 100 ft ($150)
AEV Rear Bumper with swing out tire carrier and 5 gallons of water storage (AEV $1600 ?)
AEV Hood (AEV $800)
AEV Snorkel (Mopar P5155330 $369.00)
AEV Nth Degree 3.5" Premium Suspension System (AEV $1675)
-- includes AEV high steer kit, AEV Procal speedometer recalibration kit, higher jack base)
Grand Cherokee 17" Steel Wheels (Mopar 52124455AB $500 for five)
BFG 35" KM2 (Discount Tire $1375 for 5)
ARB Roof Rack (ARB 3800010 $700)
ARB Simpson III Tent (ARB 3101US $1500)
ARB Awning (ARB 3111US ? $330)
Jeep accessory lights mounted at the windshield (Mopar 82207271 $158)
Jeep wiring harness for accessory lights (Mopar 82210507AD $111)
Daystar driving lights mounted on the front bumper (8"? lights, $160/pair)
wiring harness for driving lights ($100?)
AEV Rear Corner Guards (AEV $300)
Jeep Rear Light Guards (Mopar ?? $150)
AEV Slider rear differential skid plate (AEV $259)
Jeep Dana 44 front guard (Mopar DMC1659744 $70)
Jeep Rock Rails (Mopar 82210586 $327.000
Jeep front skid plate (Mopar P5155353 $300)
Jeep waterproof seat covers (Mopar 82210331AB $226.00)
Jeep rubber floor mats, front (Mopar 82210164AB $48.15)
Rear seats and all insulation/plastic panels removed
Custom pieces created by AEV or Mopar Underground:
-- custom roof rack supports that tie the roof rack to the internal support cage
-- custom horizontal bar added to rear corner guard to access the rack and tent
-- flat floor kit, composed of pressure treated plywood w/ rubberized coating
painted the wheels and fenders to match the Jeep body color
Jeep Rubicon "Overland," as prepared by Mopar Underground
------------------------------------------
2009 Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon 3.7L V6, automatic transmission (about $35,000)
changed stock 4.11 gearing to 5.13 (about $350 parts)
AEV Front Bumper (Mopar catalog P5155352 $1,620)
Warn 9.5 Ti winch (Mopar 82209325AB $1,555)
Viking synthetic winch line, 100 ft ($150)
AEV Rear Bumper with swing out tire carrier and 5 gallons of water storage (AEV $1600 ?)
AEV Hood (AEV $800)
AEV Snorkel (Mopar P5155330 $369.00)
AEV Nth Degree 3.5" Premium Suspension System (AEV $1675)
-- includes AEV high steer kit, AEV Procal speedometer recalibration kit, higher jack base)
Grand Cherokee 17" Steel Wheels (Mopar 52124455AB $500 for five)
BFG 35" KM2 (Discount Tire $1375 for 5)
ARB Roof Rack (ARB 3800010 $700)
ARB Simpson III Tent (ARB 3101US $1500)
ARB Awning (ARB 3111US ? $330)
Jeep accessory lights mounted at the windshield (Mopar 82207271 $158)
Jeep wiring harness for accessory lights (Mopar 82210507AD $111)
Daystar driving lights mounted on the front bumper (8"? lights, $160/pair)
wiring harness for driving lights ($100?)
AEV Rear Corner Guards (AEV $300)
Jeep Rear Light Guards (Mopar ?? $150)
AEV Slider rear differential skid plate (AEV $259)
Jeep Dana 44 front guard (Mopar DMC1659744 $70)
Jeep Rock Rails (Mopar 82210586 $327.000
Jeep front skid plate (Mopar P5155353 $300)
Jeep waterproof seat covers (Mopar 82210331AB $226.00)
Jeep rubber floor mats, front (Mopar 82210164AB $48.15)
Rear seats and all insulation/plastic panels removed
Custom pieces created by AEV or Mopar Underground:
-- custom roof rack supports that tie the roof rack to the internal support cage
-- custom horizontal bar added to rear corner guard to access the rack and tent
-- flat floor kit, composed of pressure treated plywood w/ rubberized coating
painted the wheels and fenders to match the Jeep body color
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Fond du Lac, WI
Well 35" tires in that model the only ones i found are like 35x12.50R17 for a 17 in rim... can a 12.50 go on a 7.5in wide rim? that seems a little excessive and appears to be like balloon tires which is kind of funky looking....
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
Since the original Overland JK is a 4dr rubi and yours is a 2dr non rubi, here are some suggestions to acheive an overland camping rig as you have described.
With the options below driveshafts wont be needed. Regearing probably will need to be done ($1000 with gears and install), because you dont have a rubi
Lift: 2.5 Rock Krawler stock mod ($550), this lift has progressive coils that will help when you start adding weight. add some Bilstein 5100 Shocks ($350). add some bumpstops
Tires: 305x75x17 (34") Goodyear MTR's ($1500), excellent tire, quiet on the highway and aggressive off. These will fit with the lift given above and the stock flares.
Rack: Gobi has a rack that will fit with your soft top or hard top. Not sure how solid it is.
Bumpers can be added as per your taste and funds
A rear swingout probably wont be needed with this size of tire, but ORFab has a swingout that will carry jerry cans for those long trails and this option will save some money and weight with not buying a metal rear bumper.
Front bumper is up to your taste as is the desire to add a winch.
Good luck with the build!
With the options below driveshafts wont be needed. Regearing probably will need to be done ($1000 with gears and install), because you dont have a rubi
Lift: 2.5 Rock Krawler stock mod ($550), this lift has progressive coils that will help when you start adding weight. add some Bilstein 5100 Shocks ($350). add some bumpstops
Tires: 305x75x17 (34") Goodyear MTR's ($1500), excellent tire, quiet on the highway and aggressive off. These will fit with the lift given above and the stock flares.
Rack: Gobi has a rack that will fit with your soft top or hard top. Not sure how solid it is.
Bumpers can be added as per your taste and funds
A rear swingout probably wont be needed with this size of tire, but ORFab has a swingout that will carry jerry cans for those long trails and this option will save some money and weight with not buying a metal rear bumper.
Front bumper is up to your taste as is the desire to add a winch.
Good luck with the build!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Fond du Lac, WI
Since the original Overland JK is a 4dr rubi and yours is a 2dr non rubi, here are some suggestions to acheive an overland camping rig as you have described.
With the options below driveshafts wont be needed. Regearing probably will need to be done ($1000 with gears and install), because you dont have a rubi
Lift: 2.5 Rock Krawler stock mod ($550), this lift has progressive coils that will help when you start adding weight. add some Bilstein 5100 Shocks ($350). add some bumpstops
Tires: 305x75x17 (34") Goodyear MTR's ($1500), excellent tire, quiet on the highway and aggressive off. These will fit with the lift given above and the stock flares.
Rack: Gobi has a rack that will fit with your soft top or hard top. Not sure how solid it is.
Bumpers can be added as per your taste and funds
A rear swingout probably wont be needed with this size of tire, but ORFab has a swingout that will carry jerry cans for those long trails and this option will save some money and weight with not buying a metal rear bumper.
Front bumper is up to your taste as is the desire to add a winch.
Good luck with the build!
With the options below driveshafts wont be needed. Regearing probably will need to be done ($1000 with gears and install), because you dont have a rubi
Lift: 2.5 Rock Krawler stock mod ($550), this lift has progressive coils that will help when you start adding weight. add some Bilstein 5100 Shocks ($350). add some bumpstops
Tires: 305x75x17 (34") Goodyear MTR's ($1500), excellent tire, quiet on the highway and aggressive off. These will fit with the lift given above and the stock flares.
Rack: Gobi has a rack that will fit with your soft top or hard top. Not sure how solid it is.
Bumpers can be added as per your taste and funds
A rear swingout probably wont be needed with this size of tire, but ORFab has a swingout that will carry jerry cans for those long trails and this option will save some money and weight with not buying a metal rear bumper.
Front bumper is up to your taste as is the desire to add a winch.
Good luck with the build!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
Excellent information and it does give me a firm base to start with. I do have one issue. When I've been researching that particular tire size in that tire I have found it extremely hard to find. Do you have any suggestions because even trying to find it in a different tire size is hard. Any sites that would have that size? Also, what gearing would you suggest with 34" tires? Thanks
Gearing depends on auto/manual and if you ever go up in size of tire. There are tons of gearing threads to checkout. Do lots of research on this before you pull the plug. See what others actually are running (not what they plan on installing). You can also get your lift then tires then see how it drives to feel what many are talking about with loss of power with heavier tires.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
The Mopar Overland is definitely a nice truck. My rig has been heading in that direction - expedition with crawling capability.
As for your build
Lift: IMHO - I'd stay with a 2" lift and 33's on your 2 door.
You'll save some $ with a simpler, lower lift (no need for drive shafts nor control arms, etc; less=more).
33's on a 2DR is roughly equivalent to 35s on a 4DR.
Leftover $ can go to some of the ^^aforementioned^^ parts.
BTW you mentioned AEV - they currently have a 2" spacer lift that may be up your alley and they're planning on releasing a 2" coil lift which I'm thinking I'll put on my gf's 2DR. With the AEV spacer lift I'd find some Rubi takeoff coils and shocks on here (free or very little $).
Wheels: If you run the Mopar winter wheels with 12.5" wide tires you'll probably need spacers (like on the Mopar truck) to avoid rubbing. Maybe price that setup vs. some steelies. Or splurge for some AEVs. Mine have been great through the rocks and on my daily commute.
Rack: I've been researching this for a while and Gobi is stout. Lots of people on here give it a thumbs up to. Check out this thread for some info & a good place to order from (Alpha Expedition).
Gearing: you'll be okay with stock gearing on 33s. you're not going to win any races but save up for a regear and lockers (ARB would be my vote).
Tire carrier: with 33's you won't need to replace this (unless you go for an uber heavy wheel/tire combo). this will be some more $ saved by going with 33s. I run the OR-Fab and I'm thinking about upgrading to their new Rotopax design to carry fuel/water. I like the carrier (functions flawlessly. no rattles nor movement. premature rusting hinge but great warranty/support).
definitely keep researching and asking questions.
good luck on the build. I'm interested to see how it goes.
As for your build
Lift: IMHO - I'd stay with a 2" lift and 33's on your 2 door.
You'll save some $ with a simpler, lower lift (no need for drive shafts nor control arms, etc; less=more).
33's on a 2DR is roughly equivalent to 35s on a 4DR.
Leftover $ can go to some of the ^^aforementioned^^ parts.
BTW you mentioned AEV - they currently have a 2" spacer lift that may be up your alley and they're planning on releasing a 2" coil lift which I'm thinking I'll put on my gf's 2DR. With the AEV spacer lift I'd find some Rubi takeoff coils and shocks on here (free or very little $).
Wheels: If you run the Mopar winter wheels with 12.5" wide tires you'll probably need spacers (like on the Mopar truck) to avoid rubbing. Maybe price that setup vs. some steelies. Or splurge for some AEVs. Mine have been great through the rocks and on my daily commute.
Rack: I've been researching this for a while and Gobi is stout. Lots of people on here give it a thumbs up to. Check out this thread for some info & a good place to order from (Alpha Expedition).
Gearing: you'll be okay with stock gearing on 33s. you're not going to win any races but save up for a regear and lockers (ARB would be my vote).
Tire carrier: with 33's you won't need to replace this (unless you go for an uber heavy wheel/tire combo). this will be some more $ saved by going with 33s. I run the OR-Fab and I'm thinking about upgrading to their new Rotopax design to carry fuel/water. I like the carrier (functions flawlessly. no rattles nor movement. premature rusting hinge but great warranty/support).
definitely keep researching and asking questions.
good luck on the build. I'm interested to see how it goes.